In Pursuit of Excellence 5.9
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| Type: | Trad, 1 pitch, 90 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.9+ [details] |
| FA: | Bob Ordner, Roy Briton, Rob Robinson - 1985 |
| Submitted By: | Danny Inman on Dec 30, 2006 |
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BETA PHOTO: glad I brought doubles for this classic
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Description This is a great route that follows a very distinct red-colored left-facing corner. It is located between Passages and Finger Lockin' Good. There is a pronounced bulge about thirty feet up — this is the crux. Some people might lay it back, but jamming it will keep it at 5.9. Traverse left below the large roof and finish up on face holds to a two-bolt anchor.
Location One large corner system to the left of Finger Lockin' Good. There is a reddish stain for much of the route on the wall just to the left of the crack.
Protection Assortment of cams from 0.5" up to 3". Double hand-sized pieces for the crux; I found that the # 3 WC Friend was a better fit in here than #2 Camalot. Some may want a larger cam above the bulge (i.e., 4"); long runner or two for the traverse up top.
BETA PHOTO: Eats gear, great hands and some cool lie back acti...
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Starting the crux.
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Tim cruising In Pursuit.
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Casual stemming down low.
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| Comments on In Pursuit of Excellence |
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By saxfiend
Administrator
From: Decatur, GA
Dec 30, 2006
rating: 5.10a
| Haven't led this yet, but friends who have recommend having at least four #2 Camalots on hand. |
By tenesmus
Dec 30, 2006
| Fantastic jams. Unfortunately I didn't know how when I first tried to lead it. One of the best lines at all of T-wall. |
By Ben F
From: Benfield, Kolorado
Jan 2, 2007
| 5 stars. I'd bring a 4 Friend and probably an old size 4 Camalot, too. |
By 426
Feb 27, 2007
| Often seeps in winter. You can't tell until you get up 3/4ths and grab the oozing buckets.
Didn't use a lot of #2s but did use fist sized gear and some aliens up high.
Bring long runners for anchors (left of roof some ways) |
By charlie collins
Dec 2, 2007
rating: 5.10a
| i thought i was little harder than 5.9 and some friends think the same. definitely agree with several #2 camelots and maybe few #3's and one bigger maybe. all in all fantastic climb. just did it and wasnt too wet just a little at top but not enough to matter. in fact i could avoid any wet hold completely almost. |
By cshuey77
From: Asheville, NC
May 27, 2010
rating: 5.9+
| I agree with charlie collins. awesome handjams!! |
By John Wilder
From: Las Vegas, NV
Oct 25, 2010
rating: 5.9
| meh, a double rack works out nicely- pay attention to whats going on and dont get scared about gear.
great route, though- probably my favorite i did on this trip to t-wall. |
By Mark Cushman
From: Cumming, GA
Mar 12, 2011
rating: 5.9+
| If it's been raining recently, the top seeps water into the crack and you can't see it from below. Great climb. |
By TomCaldwell
From: Clemson, S.C.
Oct 24, 2011
| Doubles of #2 is okay. A lavender metolius works very well in the crux. You can also back clean some of the start to conserve the #2. |
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