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In Pursuit of Excellence 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 90'
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Bob Ordner, Roy Briton, Rob Robinson - 1985
Page Views: 7,905
Submitted By: Danny Inman on Dec 30, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (128)
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fistin'

Description 

This is a great route that follows a very distinct red-colored left-facing corner. It is located between Passages and Finger Lockin' Good. There is a pronounced bulge about thirty feet up — this is the crux. Some people might lay it back, but jamming it will keep it at 5.9. Traverse left below the large roof and finish up on face holds to a two-bolt anchor.

Location 

One large corner system to the left of Finger Lockin' Good. There is a reddish stain for much of the route on the wall just to the left of the crack.

Protection 

Assortment of cams from 0.5" up to 3". Double hand-sized pieces for the crux; I found that the # 3 WC Friend was a better fit in here than #2 Camalot. Some may want a larger cam above the bulge (i.e., 4"); long runner or two for the traverse up top.


Photos of In Pursuit of Excellence Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Ryan cruising up
Ryan cruising up
Rock Climbing Photo: Casual stemming down low.
Casual stemming down low.
Rock Climbing Photo: Tim cruising In Pursuit.
Tim cruising In Pursuit.
Rock Climbing Photo: Starting the crux.
Starting the crux.
Rock Climbing Photo: Eats gear, great hands and some cool lie back acti...
BETA PHOTO: Eats gear, great hands and some cool lie back acti...
Rock Climbing Photo: glad I brought doubles for this classic
BETA PHOTO: glad I brought doubles for this classic

Comments on In Pursuit of Excellence Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated May 17, 2016
By saxfiend
Administrator
From: Decatur, GA
Dec 30, 2006
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Haven't led this yet, but friends who have recommend having at least four #2 Camalots on hand.
By tenesmus
Dec 30, 2006

Fantastic jams. Unfortunately I didn't know how when I first tried to lead it. One of the best lines at all of T-wall.
By Ben F
From: Benfield, Kolorado
Jan 2, 2007

5 stars. I'd bring a 4 Friend and probably an old size 4 Camalot, too.
By 426
Feb 27, 2007

Often seeps in winter. You can't tell until you get up 3/4ths and grab the oozing buckets.

Didn't use a lot of #2s but did use fist sized gear and some aliens up high.

Bring long runners for anchors (left of roof some ways)
By charlie collins
Dec 2, 2007
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

i thought i was little harder than 5.9 and some friends think the same. definitely agree with several #2 camelots and maybe few #3's and one bigger maybe. all in all fantastic climb. just did it and wasnt too wet just a little at top but not enough to matter. in fact i could avoid any wet hold completely almost.
By cshuey77
From: Asheviile,nc
May 27, 2010
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

I agree with charlie collins. awesome handjams!!
By John Wilder
From: Las Vegas, NV
Oct 25, 2010
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

meh, a double rack works out nicely- pay attention to whats going on and dont get scared about gear.

great route, though- probably my favorite i did on this trip to t-wall.
By Mark Cushman
From: Cumming, GA
Mar 12, 2011
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

If it's been raining recently, the top seeps water into the crack and you can't see it from below. Great climb.
By TomCaldwell
From: Clemson, S.C.
Oct 24, 2011

Doubles of #2 is okay. A lavender metolius works very well in the crux. You can also back clean some of the start to conserve the #2.
By Chad N in Central CA
From: Central California
Mar 18, 2015

Super Fun! I thought the 1st 25' was the crux cause of pump factor. Wide was a lieback. Roof traverse easy.
By Michael Dom
Dec 22, 2015
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

There is a fixed piece in the roof, the traverse is really easy compared to the rest of the climb. Watch the top because it is wet.
By tlacny
From: Atlanta
May 17, 2016
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

Lead this route this past Sunday. Super Fun. Hand Jams are super solid, gear is solid. Did not really feel that the route had a pump factor to it. Thought the route had two distinct cruxes(will let you figure them out. Used a BD #4 above the first crux and would have liked a 4.5.

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