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Unsorted Routes:

In Lightning 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

Type:  Sport, 2 pitches, 180'
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Eden Masters and Scott Ayers
Page Views: 9,362
Submitted By: Nick Kuhn on Jul 1, 2001

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (90)
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Greg G. on lead on In Lightning. Photo: Cory P


Following James DeRoussel's description for the crag, In Lightning will be one of the first routes you encounter. Look for the continuous bolt line that ends about 120' up the crag; it lies immediately to the left of two other bolted lines that have their anchors halfway up.

Follow the bolts to the two-bolt anchor. For the second pitch, it is wise to move the belay 40' to the large, flat ledge to the right. The moves to the ledge are unprotected Class 4. The ledge is devoid of anchors, so it's a good idea for the leader to clip the second pitch's first bolt to provide a belay. Once everyone's on the ledge, follow the bolts above the short difficulties and then run it out 50' over easy 5th class to the top of the crag. Don't fall up here. You can plug in some medium cams and slot some nuts for an anchor, or just wrap some boulders with webbing.

If you climb this in Monsoon season, chances are the route's name will hold special significance for you. Keep your eye on the clouds.


About 15 Quickdraws for the first pitch, and maybe 3-4 for the second. Long (20') webbing for the tree/boulder anchor for the second pitch, or use gear.

Photos of In Lightning Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Jennie
Rock Climbing Photo: Bout halfway on this nice long route
Bout halfway on this nice long route
Rock Climbing Photo: Sophia following, last move of Pitch 1
Sophia following, last move of Pitch 1
Rock Climbing Photo: Andy Cummens belays Tom Lind up the first pitch.
Andy Cummens belays Tom Lind up the first pitch.
Rock Climbing Photo: In Lightning (May 2013)
In Lightning (May 2013)
Rock Climbing Photo: Travis at the crux I think
Travis at the crux I think
Rock Climbing Photo: View up the line of In Lightening
View up the line of In Lightening
Rock Climbing Photo: In Lightning
In Lightning

Comments on In Lightning Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated May 8, 2016
By Wes Turner
From: az
May 24, 2004
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

solid .8 and pretty sustained...great climb. the second pitch is pretty good but the first is where the third star comes in...for a tougher finish try the bolted bulge to anchors straight up..a very solid .10 maybe .10d...(tough and fun!)lots of quickdraws(15 sounds right)
By Vincent Greene
Jul 4, 2004
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

The first pitch has 12 bolts.
By Vincent Greene
Jul 4, 2004
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Tie a knot in the end of the rope to rap or lower off the first pitch! A 60 meter rope will only get you to a downclimbable ledge 5-6 feet off the ground.
By Scott Tucker
From: Tucson, AZ
Jun 23, 2006
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

I didn't find it necessary to move the belay for the second pitch. Once on top, though, the boulders for anchoring are really far back from the edge. Odds are you won't be able to communicate with your belayer, although the Boy Scout camp across the valley will clearly hear you repeatedly screaming "On belay!!!", "On belay???" at each other.
By A.P.T.
From: Truckee,Ca
Jun 23, 2006

Two way (motorola radios) sure come in handy when climbing multi pitch routes. They have saved my partner and I a lot of grief when climbing on windy days. I realized how invaluable these radios were when climbing in the "Cochise Stronghold" when the leader is out of site of the belayer...... then you add the wind. Some may say you can communicate with rope tugs, but this is pretty tough if you are on a wondering route with the wind. Having a climbing partner where the two of you are familiar with each other helps!
By 1Eric Rhicard
Jun 24, 2006

I probably should run this by my internet sponsor before submitting this but I can't help myself. I think everyone should get the micro head cameras with satellite linkup. A small battery pack runs this fiber optic unit and the image is great. This way you can see exactly what is going on at all times. You would not need to talk or work out rope tug signals. If things get really tough you could use ASL as it would be cheaper than spending the extra $1100 for the audio feed. Heck lets just get a climbing video game and save the cost of the radios and gas to get to the climbs. Oh wait, 3 hard tugs = I am at the end of the pitch, when the rope goes tight wait a half a minute or so and start climbing. That will cost you $49.95 batteries not included.
By A.P.T.
From: Truckee,Ca
Jun 25, 2006

Technology can make a person lazy... I like to save my breath by not having to yell for communication and tugging on the rope is hard work.. I will have to check out these Sat. Link Headsets! I'll let everyone know how they work.. (CAN YOU SEE ME NOW)
By Scott Tucker
From: Tucson, AZ
Jun 28, 2006
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

I'm going to start trailing a 1mm line and clip a paper cup to each climber's harness. Or maybe a signal flare: one shot for off belay, two for on belay. Smoke signals are a possibility too, but only if there is some plant life at the top and the wind is right. A big pair of cymbals might be a cool way to announce your arrival at the belay, sort of a victory crash. Of course, the three tugs on the rope thing would work in a pinch. You know, if you dropped a cymbal or your paper cup.
By susan peplow
From: Joshua Tree
May 29, 2007
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Fun route, protects well and being sustained probably bumps the thing to a 5.8 even though the moves are technically less difficult. This of course is based on the first pitch only (which is what we did). First pitch can be TR/rapped/sing-shot with a single 70 meter cord from the anchor.

Nice line guys!

By 1Eric Rhicard
Jun 2, 2007

Something is a little fishy with this comment Peplow. Are you sucking up to the FA team?
By susan peplow
From: Joshua Tree
Jun 4, 2007
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

No sucking up here Eric....I call 'em as I see 'em. One of yours may be next!

By 1Eric Rhicard
Jun 4, 2007

I doubt it Susan, I didn't have Eden Masters around to pick out any of my new lines. As you might agree, there is usually a great woman leading most men around. Guys tend to go for women hook, line, and sinker!
By Jon Ruland
From: Tucson, AZ
Jun 27, 2010
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

p1 might be the best 5.8 sport pitch in southern arizona.
By Jennie Allred
From: Tucson, AZ
Jul 8, 2010
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

This was a really fun route. Sustained 5.8 the whole way. The exposure is great all 100 feet up!
By jeffrey c gibson
From: pheonix az
Oct 7, 2010

Super fun a must do 5 thumbs way up!!!!
By Christian
From: Casa do Cacete
Jul 31, 2012
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

PG-13, plenty of places you really don't want to fall.
By 1Eric Rhicard
Aug 9, 2012

If this thing is PG-13 all climbs are PG-13. It is really fun and is a great first lead at the grade.
By Jimbo
Aug 9, 2012

I have to agree with EFR on this one. If this your idea of pg13. You need to stop doing all the Nancy boy clips Eric and I and Scot Ayers have done in the last the ten yeara and get on some stuff done in the eighties and early nineties. Don't tell me Tucson climbers are getting soft!!!
By Christian
From: Casa do Cacete
Aug 9, 2012
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

You guys are confusing difficulty with the consequences of a fall. A 13 foot runout on 5.8 is irrelevant to me because I normally don't fall on a 5.8. For someone who climbs at the level where they might actually take that 30 footer bouncing down the slab, it will be a concern.
By 1Eric Rhicard
Aug 11, 2012

I will repeat myself. If this thing is PG-13 all climbs are PG-13. It is really fun and is a great first lead at the grade. Orifice Politics is PG-13 if this is your standard. You could mess up getting to the first bolt and tumble down the ramp. Just saying that you could get hurt on any climb if you fall off. People tweak ankles on short falls all the time.

By Eric Sophiea
Oct 29, 2013

Don't fall off? Oh... I've been doing this all wrong! Thanks for the beta!!!

Great climb! My pants get tight just thinking about it.
By Kemper Brightman
May 8, 2016

In Lightning (Enlightening?) is as good as it gets on Lemmon. Beautiful views of Tucson, perfect stone and unusually comfortable holds. In fact, I think there are more jugs on this route than all the other 8's on the mountain combined.

Instead of walkie talkies, my partner and I climbed with vape pens and used smoke signals to get in touch at the top. This technique was also helpful for communicating with the boy scouts "Bowline" "how" "to" when I realized there wasn't a bolted anchor and couldn't figure out how to do a boulder wrap.

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