In Lightning 

solid .8 and pretty sustained...great climb. the second pitch is pretty good but the first is where the third star comes in...for a tougher finish try the bolted bulge to anchors straight up..a very solid .10 maybe .10d...(tough and fun!)lots of quickdraws(15 sounds right)

The first pitch has 12 bolts.

Tie a knot in the end of the rope to rap or lower off the first pitch! A 60 meter rope will only get you to a downclimbable ledge 5-6 feet off the ground.

I didn't find it necessary to move the belay for the second pitch. Once on top, though, the boulders for anchoring are really far back from the edge. Odds are you won't be able to communicate with your belayer, although the Boy Scout camp across the valley will clearly hear you repeatedly screaming "On belay!!!", "On belay???" at each other.

Two way (motorola radios) sure come in handy when climbing multi pitch routes. They have saved my partner and I a lot of grief when climbing on windy days. I realized how invaluable these radios were when climbing in the "Cochise Stronghold" when the leader is out of site of the belayer...... then you add the wind. Some may say you can communicate with rope tugs, but this is pretty tough if you are on a wondering route with the wind. Having a climbing partner where the two of you are familiar with each other helps!

I probably should run this by my internet sponsor before submitting this but I can't help myself. I think everyone should get the micro head cameras with satellite linkup. A small battery pack runs this fiber optic unit and the image is great. This way you can see exactly what is going on at all times. You would not need to talk or work out rope tug signals. If things get really tough you could use ASL as it would be cheaper than spending the extra $1100 for the audio feed. Heck lets just get a climbing video game and save the cost of the radios and gas to get to the climbs. Oh wait, 3 hard tugs = I am at the end of the pitch, when the rope goes tight wait a half a minute or so and start climbing. That will cost you $49.95 batteries not included.

Technology can make a person lazy... I like to save my breath by not having to yell for communication and tugging on the rope is hard work.. I will have to check out these Sat. Link Headsets! I'll let everyone know how they work.. (CAN YOU SEE ME NOW)

I'm going to start trailing a 1mm line and clip a paper cup to each climber's harness. Or maybe a signal flare: one shot for off belay, two for on belay. Smoke signals are a possibility too, but only if there is some plant life at the top and the wind is right. A big pair of cymbals might be a cool way to announce your arrival at the belay, sort of a victory crash. Of course, the three tugs on the rope thing would work in a pinch. You know, if you dropped a cymbal or your paper cup.

Fun route, protects well and being sustained probably bumps the thing to a 5.8 even though the moves are technically less difficult. This of course is based on the first pitch only (which is what we did). First pitch can be TR/rapped/sing-shot with a single 70 meter cord from the anchor.

Nice line guys!

~Susan

Something is a little fishy with this comment Peplow. Are you sucking up to the FA team?

No sucking up here Eric....I call 'em as I see 'em. One of yours may be next!

~Susan

I doubt it Susan, I didn't have Eden Masters around to pick out any of my new lines. As you might agree, there is usually a great woman leading most men around. Guys tend to go for women hook, line, and sinker!

p1 might be the best 5.8 sport pitch in southern arizona.

This was a really fun route. Sustained 5.8 the whole way. The exposure is great all 100 feet up!

Super fun a must do 5 thumbs way up!!!!

PG-13, plenty of places you really don't want to fall.

If this thing is PG-13 all climbs are PG-13. It is really fun and is a great first lead at the grade.

I have to agree with EFR on this one. If this your idea of pg13. You need to stop doing all the Nancy boy clips Eric and I and Scot Ayers have done in the last the ten yeara and get on some stuff done in the eighties and early nineties. Don't tell me Tucson climbers are getting soft!!!

You guys are confusing difficulty with the consequences of a fall. A 13 foot runout on 5.8 is irrelevant to me because I normally don't fall on a 5.8. For someone who climbs at the level where they might actually take that 30 footer bouncing down the slab, it will be a concern.

I will repeat myself. If this thing is PG-13 all climbs are PG-13. It is really fun and is a great first lead at the grade. Orifice Politics is PG-13 if this is your standard. You could mess up getting to the first bolt and tumble down the ramp. Just saying that you could get hurt on any climb if you fall off. People tweak ankles on short falls all the time.

I think this PG-13 thing is BS anyway. CLIMBING IS DANGEROUS. GRAVITY PLUS ROCK EQUAL SKINNED KNEE, ELBOW, BROKEN NAIL, ETC. DO NOT FALL OFF WHERE YOU CAN HIT THINGS IF POSSIBLE.