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> a. Chico-Valse
In Between
5.10a/b YDS 6a+ French 19 Ewbanks VI+ UIAA 19 ZA E2 5b British R
Avg: 3 from 5 votes
Type: | Trad, TR, 80 ft (24 m) |
FA: | Richard Wilmott, 1960 |
Page Views: | 832 total · 8/month |
Shared By: | TSluiter on May 25, 2015 |
Admins: | Luc-514, Thierry Berland, Richer Lariviere |
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Access Issue: Site access fees - Frais d'accès
Details
This area is under the Parc Régional de Val-David Val-Morin administration, a daily fee is required to climb, hike, bike etc in the park, FQME members benefit from a rebate as well as group outings. parcregional.com
Description
Face climbing from bottom to top. A couple small horizontals on the way. Very fun moves, lots of smears on the slab, feet switching, a fun right undercling 1/3 up, shallow pockets, nice crimps and smaller tenuous feet as the slab becomes more vertical near the crux. But they are all there!
Try not to use the larger crack on the left (4/5 up) to keep it hard!
Try not to use the larger crack on the left (4/5 up) to keep it hard!
Location
In Between (ha...?) Chico (5.4) and the vertical 30 ft. crack on the right (Diabloton 5.8). Low angle face climb to high angle face, go straight up!
Protection
Fixed anchors at the top.
Trad would be ballsy, but a little wandering to the left and right might protect it. First section is impossible to protect unless you use the shallow flared crack on the route to the right which would take you off route, still would be mighty funky. Maybe a cam jam on the first horizontal crack 20 ft up or so, second would be even tougher to place. Third short vertical crack is okay. Then not much till the top if I remember correctly. You might as well solo it if you think you can protect it.
Trad would be ballsy, but a little wandering to the left and right might protect it. First section is impossible to protect unless you use the shallow flared crack on the route to the right which would take you off route, still would be mighty funky. Maybe a cam jam on the first horizontal crack 20 ft up or so, second would be even tougher to place. Third short vertical crack is okay. Then not much till the top if I remember correctly. You might as well solo it if you think you can protect it.
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