In Between  5.7

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Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80 feet Consensus:  5.7 [details] FA:  Ray Jacquot, Tom Berg, 1978 Submitted By:  Matt Richardson on Aug 6, 2009 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

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Description 

In Between shares a start in a low angle slot with another 7, Three Roofs. Three Roofs will follow the rightmost crack system while In Between will follow a parallel set of wide cracks to the left. About 10 to 15' up, move over into the wide and awkward overhanging section which is actually easier than it looks. Continue up a series of wide cracks that get progressively more difficult as you proceed upward. Although from the ground this crack appears to be almost chimney-sized, when viewed from the top, it appears as a wedge shaped crack which will require your typical wide crack trickery. For the grade, this route is a lot of fun (if wide meets your idea of fun) and is consistent (it will have you grunting throughout). Near the top, the crack diverges - stepping into the right-most crack provides the most simple solution to the finish. Belay at the top of Blair I.

Location 

In Between is located at the northwestern end of Blair I just past Community Norms and before the jumble of boulders leading to Raised On Robbery. Descend as for Spike It by walking to a set of anchors located above Le Petit Arbre. Two raps will get you to the ground.

Protection 

You can get away with a standard sized rack but extras in the hands-plus sizes will make it feel more comfortable. There are places for slotting your #4-#6, but you can probably leave them.