Home - Destinations - iPhone/Android - Partners - Forum - Photos - Deals - What's New
Login with Facebook
Black Arches Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Adirondack Rehabilitation 
Amnesia Chasm 
Amphitheatre Crack 
Birthday Corner 
Black Arch ArÍte 
Broken Broom 
Carpenter & Das 
Critical Crimps 
Dexter's Dugout 
Eatin' Tripe and Lichen It 
Four Ounces to Freedom 
Full Recovery 
Gun Show 
Hang Time 
Here I Go Again 
Impulse Drive 
Intensive Care 
Lane Change 
Parallel Passage 
Pinch an Inch 
Plumb Line 
Post Op 
Recuperation Boulevard 
Reducto Adductor 
Scaredy Cat 
Second Job 
Side Show 
Sleepy Hollow 
Suicidal Sydney 
Tilly's Trench 

Impulse Drive 

YDS: 5.8- French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: VS 4c PG13

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8- French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: VS 4c [details]
FA: August, 2011: Jay Harrison, Tom Lane
New Route: Yes
Season: May - Nov
Page Views: 44
Submitted By: Jay Harrison on Sep 15, 2011
Good Page? 0 people like this page. Your opinion:   

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]


Climb the ramp to the corner and (crux) work up onto the ledge with a parallogram-shaped, ten-foot tall block leaning on it.
Climb the block to its top, then step into the chimney to the left. Turn facing "outward" and pull up onto a good ledge. Walk around this onto the main face, joining Pinch an Inch for the last 25'.
The crux move is protectable with a large cam, though the flaring crack doesn't lend said pro much credence.
This was an impulse-driven send (hence its name), performed with bad footwear, minimal cleaning, and even less forethought.

NOTE: A lot of ice forms over the lip of the Birthday Corner early in the season. It falls from >30m up, landing among the base of all the Amphitheatre area routes. Even after the main winter's accumulation has fallen, nightly formations continue to bombard the area. Be watchful, wear a helmet, and if big ice is looming above on that crystalline spring morning, maybe climb somewhere else.


In the Amphitheatre, 10' right of the right-facing corner right of Amphitheatre Crack and Pinch an Inch, at a left-rising, narrow ramp leading to a right-facing corner with a wide, flaring crack below a ledge.
Use the 2-bolt anchor at the top to descend.


Cams to 4", several long slings, nuts and Tricams.
2-bolt anchor at the top, 1 bolt on Pinch an Inch, which this rt. joins.

Comments on Impulse Drive Add Comment
Show which comments
- none yet -