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BETA PHOTO: blue is sport, red is trad, yellow is top rope onl...
Climb the relatively easy face and crack to the overhang, clip the first bolt of the overhang, and then wonder what in the world you are supposed to do next. In fact, I don't think I've ever seen a route with such an easy start for such a difficult finish. These are probably the hardest moves at the crag, but, again, it's only the last 5 feet of the route.
Located just to the right of the arete in the center of the wall. Look for bolts up on the overhang. This climb shares its first three bolts with Crack (5.8) which splits to the right instead of going over the overhang.
By Chris Blodgett
Dec 14, 2015
We tried many times to go up the face on the over hang. The sloppers were just to bad. We ended up all finishing it by going to the left toward the top. Hope to hear back if someone makes it straight up that overhang.
Sep 1, 2016
I climbed this route directly up the face, avoiding the crack/big flake/dihedral to the right and crack to the left. It's pretty thin with this start, and more consistent difficulty with the finish. The overhang can definitely be climbed directly, with a key foot jam helpful to reach the higher, less slopey holds. Done this way, I think it is ~.11a