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 ADVANCED
Red Slab
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Desperado S,TR 
Impossible Dream T 
Leave It To Beaver T,TR 
Mantel Route, The S,TR 
Mr. Cornflakes S 
Playground S 
Pregnant Guppy T 
Red Dwarf S,TR 
Red Red Whine S 
Red Slab S,TR 

Impossible Dream 

YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b [details]
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Page Views: 1,117
Submitted By: Joey Faust on Jun 15, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (11)
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Description 

Easy climbing until the roof. Great slab climb down low and then the crack up top. Small fingers are a plus. The line starts out the same as Pregnant Guppy, then move to the right over the roof. From there follow the small crack to the chains.


Protection 

Small cams and nuts. Two bolted anchors up top.



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By Granger
Aug 30, 2006
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

The only "good" hold immediately above the overhang includes a loose rock that happens to be wedged in just right; it spooked me pretty bad when I first reached for it. It's actually in _really_ good; we've tried to remove it and won't come out.

There's nothing else to get you over the lip except a crack that will allow a single finger, and a slick sloper up high. If you can't get it (and don't want to weight the rope), you can go along the left edge of the arete a few feet, then come back around. That feels like it makes the climb about an .8 or .9, however.

By Tristan Higbee
From: Thailand
Mar 31, 2008

I love this route! It's a trad climb but climbs like a sport climb. What I mean by that is that it protects with gear but you don't really need to do a whole lot of jamming or anything. The gear is solid, the holds thin, and the moves fun.

By Brian Koralewski
From: Springville, Utah
Aug 13, 2012
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

Didn't use the arete, and didn't notice any loose rock. From a big hold just over the lip of the roof, went up & left to 2 crimpers (the upper one a real skinny fit that is hard to get the fingers in). Cranked on them, got the feet up to smear, then got a foot up onto the good hold. That move seemed about 11a, then one 10a move and the rest is 5.4.

By Aaron Shields
From: Lehi, UT
Aug 30, 2012
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

This route made me wish my fingers were smaller. The thin stuff at the crux bled me while I tried to get more finger in the crack. You just have to deal with the tiny holds, trust your pro (or TR) and make the move. I would call this a 5.9+ climb with a 5.11 crux.