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 ADVANCED
Devils Doorway
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Bloody Finger T 
Doorway Chimney T,TR 
Impossible Crack T,TR 
Romper T 

Impossible Crack 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 40'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: ??
Season: 3
Page Views: 1,425
Submitted By: James M Schroeder on Dec 15, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (11)
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Photo by Andrew Burr.

Description 

Perhaps the best offwidth at Devil's Lake. Impossible Crack is the very obvious line on the lefthand pillar of Devil's Doorway when viewed from the East. Start up by making a few face moves to gain the perfect (#2 Camalot) handcrack in the two-foot roof. Surmount the roof and climb offwidth to top, using a few small face holds on the right. Do your best not to stand on any of the ledges that are so close and beckoning...


Location 

On Devil's Doorway proper. Easily noticed as the large crack just left of the doorway when viewed from the East.


Protection 

A couple #2 Camalots and a few #4 and #4.5 Camalots, as well as a set of nuts for the bottom...



Photos of Impossible Crack Slideshow Add Photo
So close, yet so far.
So close, yet so far.
How can such a short crack make you puff so hard?
How can such a short crack make you puff so hard?
Follow the yellow line for Impossible Crack...
BETA PHOTO: Follow the yellow line for Impossible Crack...
Dylan leading Impossible Crack #2.
Dylan leading Impossible Crack #2.
Dylan leading Impossible Crack.
Dylan leading Impossible Crack.
Topped out on Devil's Doorway "Impossible Crack" OW, and enjoying a nice cold Hamm's "From the land of Sky Blue Waters"
Topped out on Devil's Doorway "Impossible Crack" O...
Comments on Impossible Crack Add Comment
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By Andy Hansen
From: Longmont, Colorado
Jun 4, 2011
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Don't armbar or use any off-width technique and you're golden. Bring 1 #4 Camalot. Sing "Return of The Mac" while you flail on this thing.

By Tradoholic
Aug 7, 2011
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

I didn't find this to be particularly thrilling climbing but the summit and applause when you finish make it better. Definitely tricky to get in the right positions to ascend.

By Doug Hemken
Administrator
Aug 8, 2013

Four pieces of gear: pink tricam, #2 C4, #4 C4, and a #5 C4.

You could substitute the appropriate size nut for the tricam, it's just there to keep you from bouncing into the abyss on the first easy moves.

And you could use the 3 & 4 C4s instead of the 4 & 5, but you will have to put more thought into how you place them.