|Consensus:||YDS: 5.4 French: 4a Ewbanks: 12 UIAA: IV ZA: 10 British: VD 3c [details]|
|Submitted By:||Andrew Gram on Mar 18, 2002|
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By Mark E Dixon
From: Sprezzatura, Someday
Oct 15, 2013
I only saw two sets of anchors on the summit ridge today (10/14/13).
When you first arrive on the ridge there are two drilled angles and a new bolt set up with a rapid link and a ring providing a single rappel to the ground. We used a 70 meter rope and had some rope to spare.
There is a double bolt anchor partway down the face that could be used if you are climbing with a 30 meter rope for some bizarre reason.
Farther along the ridge there are two bolts placed near each other at the point where the ridge rises just a bit. One is newish, the other old and uninspiring. Neither is set up for a rap, but they are useful if you rope up for the ridge traverse.
I didn't see any other anchors on the ridge and didn't really see any prospects for gear. There is a thread which could be utilized, but since I could wiggle the whole formation back and forth with one hand, I skipped it.