|f. The Guides' Wall (Madame G's)
This is a good link up of the first pitch of Immaculate Conception, and the second pitch of Son of Bitchy Virgin.
The start is located at a creaky flake just right of Son of Bitchy Virgin's right-facing corner. Begin by climbing the flake and pulling a short roof to a ledge. Continue straight up the face towards a slung block and belay here (or on gear above).
For a second pitch, climb straight up the face following the best clean holds (trend right; some might find this section a little run out...it gets a PG rating in the Williams guide) before jug-hauling the last bit to the GT ledge. Rap to the ground in two ropes, or to the slung block with one.
Overall a nice (2 star - Williams) route to do in you are in the area.
Mostly standard gear...saving small stuff (blue and black aliens) for the second pitch. One rap with doubles or two raps with a single.
P2 of Immaculate/Son of Bitchy Virgin
Jun 28, 2010
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Nice climb. There isn't much gear above the roof till the slung flake on P1, but the climbing is easy. P2 is on a serious side of PG13. Small aliens will be helpful - tiny flaring shallow horizontals in couple of spots till you hit the piton up top.
|By Logan Schiff|
From: NY, NY
May 28, 2013
Nice underrated climb. Definitely runout on second pitch but probably no harder than 5.5.