|Type:||Trad, 2 pitches, 190'|
|Original:||YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b PG13 [details]|
|FA:||Todd Swain and John Thackray, 1986 pitch 1 Jim McCarthy and John Reppy 1967 pitch 2|
|Submitted By:||Jeff Mekolites on Oct 23, 2008|
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|Comments on Immaculate Virgin||Add Comment|
|Show which comments —
Jun 28, 2010
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
|Nice climb. There isn't much gear above the roof till the slung flake on P1, but the climbing is easy. P2 is on a serious side of PG13. Small aliens will be helpful - tiny flaring shallow horizontals in couple of spots till you hit the piton up top.|
By Logan Schiff
From: Brooklyn, NY
May 28, 2013
|Nice underrated climb. Definitely runout on second pitch but probably no harder than 5.5.|
From: New Paltz
Jun 17, 2015
This is a cool climb but "serious side of PG13" as noted above is pretty fair. The placements on the second pitch are quite spaced and you have to hunt for them a bit. If one of them blows you're looking at a pretty major fall. That said, I really enjoyed piecing things together on the second pitch, really nice position and moves.
It did look to me like a blue C4 or equivalent (which I don't carry normally) would have provided some reassurance in the middle of the p1 roof. Not so much to protect the roof as to make up for the fact that you have to go a little ways before you get good gear again. No home for that big piece on the second pitch though!
Consider bringing some cord, both rap anchors could use some TLC.
From: Montclair, NJ
Aug 15, 2015
rating: 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
|P1 is 5.4. The route gets 5.6 PG due to the link-up with Son of Bitchy Virgin for P2.|