Sign Up  |   Log In:Login with Facebook
REI Community
f. The Guides' Wall (Madame G's)
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Asphodel T 
Bag's End T 
Beatle Brow Bulge T 
Beginner's Delight T 
Bitchy Virgin T 
Blueberry Ledges T 
Blueberry Wine T,TR 
Columbia T 
Delusions of Grandeur T 
Don't Shoot T 
Finger Locks or Cedar Box T 
Friends and Lovers T 
Funny Face T 
Hawk T 
Hyjek's Horror T 
Immaculate Virgin T 
Le Teton T 
Madame Grunnebaum's Wulst T 
Minty T 
Mr. P's Wurst T 
Northern Pillar T 
Peregrine T 
Small Furry Mammals' Club T,TR 
Snooky's Return T 
Son of Bitchy Virgin T 
Southern Pillar T 
Tetonia T 
Tipsy Trees T 
Triple Bulges T 
Twin Oaks T 
Unamed T 
Willie's Weep T 

Immaculate Virgin 

YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b PG13

Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 190'
Original:  YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b PG13 [details]
FA: Todd Swain and John Thackray, 1986 pitch 1 Jim McCarthy and John Reppy 1967 pitch 2
Page Views: 1,264
Submitted By: Jeff Mekolites on Oct 23, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (27)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
Johanna climbing the 2nd pitch of Immaculate Virgi...

2016 Seasonal Raptor Closure between Laughing Man to V-3 MORE INFO >>>


This is a good link up of the first pitch of Immaculate Conception, and the second pitch of Son of Bitchy Virgin.

The start is located at a creaky flake just right of Son of Bitchy Virgin's right-facing corner. Begin by climbing the flake and pulling a short roof to a ledge. Continue straight up the face towards a slung block and belay here (or on gear above).

For a second pitch, climb straight up the face following the best clean holds (trend right; some might find this section a little run gets a PG rating in the Williams guide) before jug-hauling the last bit to the GT ledge. Rap to the ground in two ropes, or to the slung block with one.

Overall a nice (2 star - Williams) route to do in you are in the area.


Mostly standard gear...saving small stuff (blue and black aliens) for the second pitch. One rap with doubles or two raps with a single.

Photos of Immaculate Virgin Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: P2 of Immaculate/Son of Bitchy Virgin
P2 of Immaculate/Son of Bitchy Virgin

Comments on Immaculate Virgin Add Comment
Show which comments
By doligo
Jun 28, 2010
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13

Nice climb. There isn't much gear above the roof till the slung flake on P1, but the climbing is easy. P2 is on a serious side of PG13. Small aliens will be helpful - tiny flaring shallow horizontals in couple of spots till you hit the piton up top.
By Logan Schiff
From: Brooklyn, NY
May 28, 2013

Nice underrated climb. Definitely runout on second pitch but probably no harder than 5.5.
By Optimistic
From: New Paltz
Jun 17, 2015

This is a cool climb but "serious side of PG13" as noted above is pretty fair. The placements on the second pitch are quite spaced and you have to hunt for them a bit. If one of them blows you're looking at a pretty major fall. That said, I really enjoyed piecing things together on the second pitch, really nice position and moves.

It did look to me like a blue C4 or equivalent (which I don't carry normally) would have provided some reassurance in the middle of the p1 roof. Not so much to protect the roof as to make up for the fact that you have to go a little ways before you get good gear again. No home for that big piece on the second pitch though!

Consider bringing some cord, both rap anchors could use some TLC.
By john2.71
From: Montclair, NJ
Aug 15, 2015
rating: 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c

P1 is 5.4. The route gets 5.6 PG due to the link-up with Son of Bitchy Virgin for P2.

The Definitive
Climbing Resource

Inspiration & Motivation
to Fuel Your Run

Next Generation Mountain
Bike Trail Maps

Backcountry, Sidecountry
& Secret Stashes

Better Data. Better Tools.
Better Hikes!