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Immaculate Deception 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, 2 pitches, 180'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Richard Rossiter, Steve "Crusher" Bartlett, Fran Bagenal 1999
Page Views: 548
Submitted By: Ivan Rezucha on Aug 28, 2004
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Description 

This is a one-move climb with decent 5.9 climbing below and above the crux, and a hard direct start that should be posted separately. Rossiter calls the crux overhang 11a. For someone of my height (6' 2") it's much easier but tricky to figure it out. Not sure how to rate this. It might be 10a for me. Might be 11a if you're shorter.

Start: Just right of the wide crack of Walk on the Wide Side is a thin, somewhat flared crack with several bolts leading to an overhang. This is the direct start. Rossiter says this is 11c/d. Right of this is a left facing corner just left of a large tree with 3 bolts on the slab above the tree.

P1: Start up the corner then step right onto the slab. 5.8ish moves lead to the third bolt. Traverse left to 2 bolts with rings. This is the anchor for the direct start. You could belay here. Continue up and left to a big platform below an overhang with a bolt above it. You can place a yellow Alien to make the clip. The clip isn't that difficult, but you're a long way above the anchor. Make the one move crux and step right to the crack and get gear. Climb the bulge right of the crack on jugs, and continue following the crack, with gear in the crack, but mostly climbing right of the crack. The crack gets wide below an overhang. A #4 Camalot makes it easy to protect the next move. If you didn't bring it, a #3 Camalot will work lower, or you can work a little harder to get a piece higher in the back of the crack. A couple of jams get you high enough to swing out left onto the face. Pull back right, and easy climbing leads to a double tree on the left side of the ledge. Move right on the ledge to the Crack of Dawn anchors.

You could continue with the Crack of Dawn second pitch (5.8 or 9) or P2 of Walk on the Wide Side (5.7, above the trees and a bit left) or even traverse right to join Mystic Mile.


Protection 

Singles from yellow Alien to 0.75 Camalot, doubles to #3 Camalot, optional #4 Camalot. 15+ draws and long slings.



Photos of Immaculate Deception Slideshow Add Photo
The first pitch of Immaculate Deception.  The direct start (11d) climbs the flared finger crack to the roof.  The easier start (9) climbs the slab to the right.
BETA PHOTO: The first pitch of Immaculate Deception. The dire...
Peter Dillon leading the 5.9 slab start to Immaculate Deception.
Peter Dillon leading the 5.9 slab start to Immacul...
The 5.9 slab start to Immaculate Deception. From the anchor, you can top-rope the 5.11d direct start.
BETA PHOTO: The 5.9 slab start to Immaculate Deception. From t...
Peter Dillon on the 11d direct start.  The layback is very strenuous and the crack is flared.  The crux is moving out of the layback and getting established below the roof.
Peter Dillon on the 11d direct start. The layback...
Comments on Immaculate Deception Add Comment
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By Ron Olsen
From: Boulder, CO
Aug 30, 2004

A decent route with a height-dependent crux. The move straight up from the bolt at the crux bulge has poor hands. I tried several times but couldn't make it work.This felt like hard 5.11. I finally went left about five feet, stepped up and grabbed a thin flake, then laybacked up and right. At 6'1", this felt about 5.10a. My shorter partners couldn't make the reach to do the move this way, and ultimately had to aid the move.

The direct start, up a flared finger crack and over a roof, is strenuous and difficult. I attempted it on a top rope, but couldn't do the crux move. I'd guess it's 11c or 11d.

By Anonymous Coward
Aug 30, 2004

Solid 11d. Hint: layback the other direction from what is shown in the action photo.

Cheers,

bob

By david goldstein
Sep 14, 2006

The direct variation is short and most of it is easy, but the remaining four meters are very worthwhile. Quite closely bolted, but I'm not complaining. I used yet another sequence from the ones described above.

The rest of the climb, above the intermediate anchors, did not look worth bothering with.

By Ivan Rezucha
From: Fort Collins, CO
Jun 2, 2007

Greg Miller onsighted the direct start yesterday all trad. The gear was very good. Blue Alien to .75 Camalot. The cams in the vertical crack are good straight down. You can get a directional below the crack which, if clipped short, keeps the rope from pulling out on the cams above. There's a very good small cam in the flake on the right, and bigger cams in the overlap.