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The Right Mary
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Immaculate Conception T 
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Immaculate Conception 

YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 6 pitches, 1000', Grade III
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Bryan Bird & Carl Oswald
Page Views: 1,629
Submitted By: Mike on May 24, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (12)
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Trying to figure out where to go on pitch 4

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Description 

A fun adventure route without a single bolt.

P1: Ascend the crack up the center of the face with tons of features to a comfy, obvious belay ledge. 5.10
P2: Climb a short, sketchy face past a tree, then up easier cracks to a belay just down & right of a nice-looking right facing corner. 5.9
P3: Up the great corner that starts OW and ends up fingers. 5.9
P4: Move belay down and left 15' or so to the notch, then start up a nice thin hands crack to some thin face moves on patina to a belay ledge. 5.10
P5: Up cracks just right of the big corner. 5.9
P6: Continue up via multiple options.

To descend walk down the east ridge to a gully that leads down to the base.

Location 

Located on the left side of the Right Mary. Start at a crack on a face with lots of featured black patina. This is located a bit left of a prominent right-facing corner.

Protection 

Doubles of cams from tiny through a 3 or 4 camalot. Singles up to a #5 or #6 camalot. 1 set of nuts. Multiple slings. There are no bolts or fixed anchors.


Photos of Immaculate Conception Slideshow Add Photo
Another pic of pitch 1
Another pic of pitch 1
The start of Immaculate Conception.
BETA PHOTO: The start of Immaculate Conception.
pitch 3 offwidth to fingers corner
pitch 3 offwidth to fingers corner
the half mantle on pitch 4
the half mantle on pitch 4

Comments on Immaculate Conception Add Comment
Show which comments
By S. O.
From: logan,ut
Dec 29, 2011

I found this to be an enjoyable route that gets full winter sun and good belay ledges. This route does have some commitment as bailing after pitch two would be really bad. The whole route (except pitch 2) was good, and the route will get better as it cleans up with a few more ascents. A #6 camalot is only necessary in one spot, which was not too difficult nor too dangerous. It was used there (pitch 3), but if I were to do it again I would go without the added weight. Enjoy the route!
By steve lindsay
Jan 3, 2012

Great climbing for a fine winter day. The walk off is heinous. Trundle fest and I am still pulling cactus prickles from my legs.
By Spencer Weiler
From: SLC, UT
Jan 6, 2012

Certaintly not a classic route by any means, but a fun, fast, easy multipitch climb that is great for winter. Soft for 5.10.
Pitch 1-best pitch of climb, fingers to #4 camalot. You will want at least 1 #4 camalot for this pitch, but two is better. Belay on huge ledge behind massive slung block, save #2-#3 camalot.
Pitch 2- choss, choss, choss. worst pitch of climb. After face climbing past a tree, choose your own adventure on 5.5 gully action up bad rock to brushy ledge and belay off your choice of trees/bushes.
pitch 3- walk/hike left to a fun corner offwidth where a #5 camalot is nice, but we noticed an easy traverse to the left will allow you to bypass this section altogether if you want, but it was one of the most fun sections of the climb, so bring the #5 or run it out. We belayed on the lower ledge after downclimbing 5 feet, using the rock itself as a toprope anchor of sorts
pitch 4-Climb thin hand crack to a roof, then mantle around the rightside and traverse out to a flake, then up fun patina(small gear) to another thin hand crack, ending on a sandy belay ledge up and left. another tree belay.
pitch 5- 2nd choose your own adventure pitch. take the path of least resistance to where the 4th class starts.No reason to make this 2 pitches. more tree belays.
Like steve said, its the standard zion walkoff. brush, loose dirt, cactus, 5th class downclimbing, down steep gully etc. 45 min back to your packs. some cairns mark the path
By Courtney Pace
Jun 14, 2013

The pitch 3 OW is short, low angle, and not exposed so the big gear isnt necessary if you dont want to lug it. A couple #4 camalots came in handy for the end of the first pitch though. After pitch 4 just choose the path of least resistance til you feel comfy unroping. It gets progressively chossier right after pitch 4 so dont stress about being 'off route'. Walk-off isnt worst than other stuff in zion. Pretty standard steep and loose stuff like spence said.