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Imjin Scout 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ British: E1 5a X

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Arno Ilgner and Kelly Moore
Season: Spring-Summer-Fall
Page Views: 174
Submitted By: Rodger Raubach on Mar 13, 2011
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Description 

The route is strictly great, steep face climbing on widely spaced holds. It starts from the extreme edge of the ledge at climbers right facing the rock. A slippery stem-across is required to become established on the face; the route proceeds upward and then moves left following the sharp-cut holds. There are a few awkward moves up and a long reach left to the final exit ledges. Short, but intense. A very sweet climb. This was (and still is!) a very bold lead when climbed.


Location: Handrails Area 

Use the descent described for Peterman's Route. This climb, although put up on lead, is seldom led and normally toproped. The big ledge 50 feet below the rim is the normal start. This route is a very steep climb on the face between Peterman's Route, and Easy Day for a Lady.


Protection 

One bolt. Fence post anchors at top.



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By Rodger Raubach
Mar 17, 2011

I'd make this additional comment re: Imjin Scout: almost everyone topropes this climb. In the time I've been climbing at Fremeont Canyon, I've never seen the route led.

By Rodger Raubach
Mar 26, 2011

I spoke with Kelly Moore, one of the first ascensionists, today; the route was led without the bolt. The only protection used by Arno was a pair of horizontally opposed RPs.