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that guy named seb
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Dec 17, 2015
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Britland
· Joined Oct 2015
· Points: 236
I have climbed 7c+ (5.13a) yet i really struggle with V5, this seems to be the opposite when i look around, i see lots of v9/10 boulderers maxing out at 6b+(5.10d), this doesn't make any sense to me. has anybody else had similar experiences or can give some insight as to why i suck at bouldering? Edit: just to clarify, those v9 boulderers are pretty much dedicated boulderers who don't do much if any climbing on ropes.
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Tom Sherman
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Dec 17, 2015
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Austin, TX
· Joined Feb 2013
· Points: 433
Most people are good at or get better at what they do. You don't boulder. Boulderereererererers do. Go get better at bouldering if you want to.
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Timothy L
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Dec 17, 2015
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New York
· Joined Aug 2015
· Points: 110
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BigB
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Dec 17, 2015
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Red Rock, NV
· Joined Feb 2015
· Points: 340
.....It's close to buildering ;)
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Rob Gordon
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Dec 17, 2015
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Hollywood, CA
· Joined Feb 2009
· Points: 115
I don't know any V9 boulderers that max out at 10d. Not even if that's gym to trad.
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WoodyW
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Dec 17, 2015
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Alaska
· Joined Sep 2014
· Points: 70
TLyons wrote:whats bouldering? Some cult thing where people think they're climbers, i guess. Not sure.
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Anonymous
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Dec 17, 2015
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Unknown Hometown
· Joined unknown
· Points: 0
that guy named seb wrote:I have climbed 7c+ (5.13a) yet i really struggle with V5, this seems to be the opposite when i look around, i see lots of v9/10 boulderers maxing out at 6b+(5.10d), this doesn't make any sense to me. has anybody else had similar experiences or can give some insight as to why i suck at bouldering? Your numbers feel off although I think it is true that I know a lot of boulders who can climb technically harder than they can do rope. Bouldering and rope aren't really the same, bouldering is more of a really hard short puzzle. Rope climbing is long endurance that a lot of time requires a short technical section after some not so hard climbing. I have climbed dozens of V5, few V6 but anything I would say starting in sustained 5.10d+ I would have to work on for rope. I can generally do all the moves on most 5.12s if I hang at every bolt on first attempt but my endurance keeps me from cleanly climbing them a lot of times. I rarely do hard rope I much prefer spending hours climbing 5.9 or easier 500ft+ stuff. I don't think I have ever met anyone who can climb v9 / v10 and can't walk up a 5.11 like it is a warmup.
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shotwell
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Dec 17, 2015
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Unknown Hometown
· Joined Feb 2011
· Points: 0
ViperScale wrote: Your numbers feel off although I think it is true that I know a lot of boulders who can climb technically harder than they can do rope. Bouldering and rope aren't really the same, bouldering is more of a really hard short puzzle. Rope climbing is long endurance that a lot of time requires a short technical section after some not so hard climbing. I have climbed dozens of V5, few V6 but anything I would say starting in sustained 5.10d+ I would have to work on for rope. I can generally do all the moves on most 5.12s if I hang at every bolt on first attempt but my endurance keeps me from cleanly climbing them a lot of times. I rarely do hard rope I much prefer spending hours climbing 5.9 or easier 500ft+ stuff. I don't think I have ever met anyone who can climb v9 / v10 and can't walk up a 5.11 like it is a warmup. I primarily boulder, and in the grade range discussed above. I find that if I haven't sport climbed in a couple of years that I'm tight and tentative. I'll still onsight virtually any 5.11 I get on, but I'll rarely just hike it. Once I'm tuned up I can climb 5.11 in my sleep.
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Ted Pinson
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Dec 17, 2015
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Chicago, IL
· Joined Jul 2014
· Points: 252
Yeah...if you can climb V9 but not 5.10d, something is wrong.
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David B
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Dec 17, 2015
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Denver, CO
· Joined Apr 2011
· Points: 205
well how often do you boulder inside/outside?
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Kyle Harding
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Dec 17, 2015
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East Troy, WI
· Joined May 2014
· Points: 1,473
Focus less on the grade. If you're having fun that's all that really matters.
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Sean Brokaw
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Dec 17, 2015
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Boulder, CO
· Joined Dec 2012
· Points: 5
Kyle Harding wrote:Focus less on the grade man. If you're having fun hat's all that really matters. While it's true that having fun is the main point, many people find harder routes/boulders to be more enjoyable.
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csproul
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Dec 17, 2015
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Pittsboro...sort of, NC
· Joined Dec 2009
· Points: 330
Kyle Harding wrote:Focus less on the grade man. If you're having fun hat's all that really matters. If you don't like the bolt, just don't clip it!
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Old lady H
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Dec 17, 2015
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Boise, ID
· Joined Aug 2015
· Points: 1,374
that guy named seb wrote:I have climbed 7c+ (5.13a) yet i really struggle with V5, this seems to be the opposite when i look around, i see lots of v9/10 boulderers maxing out at 6b+(5.10d), this doesn't make any sense to me. has anybody else had similar experiences or can give some insight as to why i suck at bouldering? Maybe you just don't enjoy working the same moves a what seems like a zillion times trying to get it exactly right? Seems to be a lot more of that in nailing boulder problems.
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Alex Bury
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Dec 17, 2015
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Ojai, CA
· Joined Jun 2012
· Points: 2,376
It's really common actually. I believe it's due to our tendency to gravitate towards what we're naturally good at, and to avoid what takes more effort. Your numbers seem a bit extreme, but the point is the same. I know several people who climb 5.12 all the time, but fight "tooth and nail" on V4.
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J Q
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Dec 17, 2015
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Unknown Hometown
· Joined Mar 2012
· Points: 50
Holy shit you are a wierdo. Perhaps the 7C+ you climbed was more like a 7A. That would make sense.
So are the wierdo's who boulder V9, perhaps they were more like V5?
Shit, I have flashed a V9 and a 5.13a, both pretty easy, that's why I flashed them ;) You are comparing apples and oranges, on different planets, that are full of shit. At least that is the most likely explanation.
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Walter Galli
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Dec 17, 2015
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Las vegas
· Joined Sep 2015
· Points: 2,247
that guy named seb wrote:I have climbed 7c+ (5.13a) yet i really struggle with V5, this seems to be the opposite when i look around, i see lots of v9/10 boulderers maxing out at 6b+(5.10d), this doesn't make any sense to me. has anybody else had similar experiences or can give some insight as to why i suck at bouldering? That sounds strange maybe is because you don't have a rope? Ever thought of this?
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that guy named seb
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Dec 18, 2015
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Britland
· Joined Oct 2015
· Points: 236
Tom Sherman wrote:Most people are good at or get better at what they do. You don't boulder. Boulderereererererers do. Go get better at bouldering if you want to. But i do boulder i have been bouldering at least 3 times a week for the past year and i'm still terrible! Weirdest thing is, my endurance has actually gotten better as has my lead grade, so i have certainly been getting allot stronger, my campusing, physique and even general gymnastic skills have gotten better, yet my grade has barely increased.
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Walter Galli
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Dec 18, 2015
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Las vegas
· Joined Sep 2015
· Points: 2,247
that guy named seb wrote: But i do boulder i have been bouldering at least 3 times a week for the past year and i'm still terrible! Weirdest thing is, my endurance has actually gotten better as has my lead grade, so i have certainly been getting allot stronger, my campusing, physique and even general gymnastic skills have gotten better, yet my grade has barely increased. I give you a tip that works for me, never train 2 days before going bouldering, your body need a rest to then explode on the Boulder.. A good boulderer. Give it to me and it works..
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that guy named seb
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Dec 18, 2015
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Britland
· Joined Oct 2015
· Points: 236
Walter Galli wrote: I give you a tip that works for me, never train 2 days before going bouldering, your body need a rest to then explode on the Boulder.. A good boulderer. Give it to me and it works.. I don't train, i just boulder 3-4 times a week and lead when i can.
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Ted Pinson
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Dec 18, 2015
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Chicago, IL
· Joined Jul 2014
· Points: 252
Yeah, every time I boulder, my body feels totally wrecked the next day, lol. I don't know how people do multiple day stints. Seb: that actually makes sense. Siegrist claims that training maximum strength/power will actually help build endurance because the holds will feel comparably better and moves easier. If pinches and slopers feel like jugs, you can grab 'em all day.
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