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I'm terrible at bouldering

Original Post
that guy named seb · · Britland · Joined Oct 2015 · Points: 236

I have climbed 7c+ (5.13a) yet i really struggle with V5, this seems to be the opposite when i look around, i see lots of v9/10 boulderers maxing out at 6b+(5.10d), this doesn't make any sense to me. has anybody else had similar experiences or can give some insight as to why i suck at bouldering?
Edit: just to clarify, those v9 boulderers are pretty much dedicated boulderers who don't do much if any climbing on ropes.

Tom Sherman · · Austin, TX · Joined Feb 2013 · Points: 433

Most people are good at or get better at what they do. You don't boulder. Boulderereererererers do.

Go get better at bouldering if you want to.

Timothy L · · New York · Joined Aug 2015 · Points: 110

whats bouldering?

BigB · · Red Rock, NV · Joined Feb 2015 · Points: 340

.....It's close to buildering ;)

Rob Gordon · · Hollywood, CA · Joined Feb 2009 · Points: 115

I don't know any V9 boulderers that max out at 10d. Not even if that's gym to trad.

WoodyW · · Alaska · Joined Sep 2014 · Points: 70
TLyons wrote:whats bouldering?
Some cult thing where people think they're climbers, i guess. Not sure.
Anonymous · · Unknown Hometown · Joined unknown · Points: 0
that guy named seb wrote:I have climbed 7c+ (5.13a) yet i really struggle with V5, this seems to be the opposite when i look around, i see lots of v9/10 boulderers maxing out at 6b+(5.10d), this doesn't make any sense to me. has anybody else had similar experiences or can give some insight as to why i suck at bouldering?
Your numbers feel off although I think it is true that I know a lot of boulders who can climb technically harder than they can do rope.

Bouldering and rope aren't really the same, bouldering is more of a really hard short puzzle. Rope climbing is long endurance that a lot of time requires a short technical section after some not so hard climbing.

I have climbed dozens of V5, few V6 but anything I would say starting in sustained 5.10d+ I would have to work on for rope. I can generally do all the moves on most 5.12s if I hang at every bolt on first attempt but my endurance keeps me from cleanly climbing them a lot of times.

I rarely do hard rope I much prefer spending hours climbing 5.9 or easier 500ft+ stuff.

I don't think I have ever met anyone who can climb v9 / v10 and can't walk up a 5.11 like it is a warmup.
shotwell · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2011 · Points: 0
ViperScale wrote: Your numbers feel off although I think it is true that I know a lot of boulders who can climb technically harder than they can do rope. Bouldering and rope aren't really the same, bouldering is more of a really hard short puzzle. Rope climbing is long endurance that a lot of time requires a short technical section after some not so hard climbing. I have climbed dozens of V5, few V6 but anything I would say starting in sustained 5.10d+ I would have to work on for rope. I can generally do all the moves on most 5.12s if I hang at every bolt on first attempt but my endurance keeps me from cleanly climbing them a lot of times. I rarely do hard rope I much prefer spending hours climbing 5.9 or easier 500ft+ stuff. I don't think I have ever met anyone who can climb v9 / v10 and can't walk up a 5.11 like it is a warmup.
I primarily boulder, and in the grade range discussed above. I find that if I haven't sport climbed in a couple of years that I'm tight and tentative. I'll still onsight virtually any 5.11 I get on, but I'll rarely just hike it. Once I'm tuned up I can climb 5.11 in my sleep.
Ted Pinson · · Chicago, IL · Joined Jul 2014 · Points: 252

Yeah...if you can climb V9 but not 5.10d, something is wrong.

David B · · Denver, CO · Joined Apr 2011 · Points: 205

well how often do you boulder inside/outside?

Kyle Harding · · East Troy, WI · Joined May 2014 · Points: 1,473

Focus less on the grade. If you're having fun that's all that really matters.

Sean Brokaw · · Boulder, CO · Joined Dec 2012 · Points: 5
Kyle Harding wrote:Focus less on the grade man. If you're having fun hat's all that really matters.
While it's true that having fun is the main point, many people find harder routes/boulders to be more enjoyable.
csproul · · Pittsboro...sort of, NC · Joined Dec 2009 · Points: 330
Kyle Harding wrote:Focus less on the grade man. If you're having fun hat's all that really matters.
If you don't like the bolt, just don't clip it!
Old lady H · · Boise, ID · Joined Aug 2015 · Points: 1,374
that guy named seb wrote:I have climbed 7c+ (5.13a) yet i really struggle with V5, this seems to be the opposite when i look around, i see lots of v9/10 boulderers maxing out at 6b+(5.10d), this doesn't make any sense to me. has anybody else had similar experiences or can give some insight as to why i suck at bouldering?
Maybe you just don't enjoy working the same moves a what seems like a zillion times trying to get it exactly right? Seems to be a lot more of that in nailing boulder problems.
Alex Bury · · Ojai, CA · Joined Jun 2012 · Points: 2,376

It's really common actually. I believe it's due to our tendency to gravitate towards what we're naturally good at, and to avoid what takes more effort. Your numbers seem a bit extreme, but the point is the same. I know several people who climb 5.12 all the time, but fight "tooth and nail" on V4.

J Q · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2012 · Points: 50

Holy shit you are a wierdo. Perhaps the 7C+ you climbed was more like a 7A. That would make sense.

So are the wierdo's who boulder V9, perhaps they were more like V5?

Shit, I have flashed a V9 and a 5.13a, both pretty easy, that's why I flashed them ;)

You are comparing apples and oranges, on different planets, that are full of shit.

At least that is the most likely explanation.

Walter Galli · · Las vegas · Joined Sep 2015 · Points: 2,247
that guy named seb wrote:I have climbed 7c+ (5.13a) yet i really struggle with V5, this seems to be the opposite when i look around, i see lots of v9/10 boulderers maxing out at 6b+(5.10d), this doesn't make any sense to me. has anybody else had similar experiences or can give some insight as to why i suck at bouldering?
That sounds strange maybe is because you don't have a rope? Ever thought of this?
that guy named seb · · Britland · Joined Oct 2015 · Points: 236
Tom Sherman wrote:Most people are good at or get better at what they do. You don't boulder. Boulderereererererers do. Go get better at bouldering if you want to.
But i do boulder i have been bouldering at least 3 times a week for the past year and i'm still terrible! Weirdest thing is, my endurance has actually gotten better as has my lead grade, so i have certainly been getting allot stronger, my campusing, physique and even general gymnastic skills have gotten better, yet my grade has barely increased.
Walter Galli · · Las vegas · Joined Sep 2015 · Points: 2,247
that guy named seb wrote: But i do boulder i have been bouldering at least 3 times a week for the past year and i'm still terrible! Weirdest thing is, my endurance has actually gotten better as has my lead grade, so i have certainly been getting allot stronger, my campusing, physique and even general gymnastic skills have gotten better, yet my grade has barely increased.
I give you a tip that works for me, never train 2 days before going bouldering, your body need a rest to then explode on the Boulder.. A good boulderer. Give it to me and it works..
that guy named seb · · Britland · Joined Oct 2015 · Points: 236
Walter Galli wrote: I give you a tip that works for me, never train 2 days before going bouldering, your body need a rest to then explode on the Boulder.. A good boulderer. Give it to me and it works..
I don't train, i just boulder 3-4 times a week and lead when i can.
Ted Pinson · · Chicago, IL · Joined Jul 2014 · Points: 252

Yeah, every time I boulder, my body feels totally wrecked the next day, lol. I don't know how people do multiple day stints.

Seb: that actually makes sense. Siegrist claims that training maximum strength/power will actually help build endurance because the holds will feel comparably better and moves easier. If pinches and slopers feel like jugs, you can grab 'em all day.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Bouldering
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