|The Main Wall
I'm Still Here
|Type: ||Trad, 2 pitches, 180'|
|Consensus: || YDS: 5.10c/d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5b [details]|
|FA: ||Mark Sprague and Dmitriy Shirokov|
|New Route: ||Yes|
|Page Views: ||1,116|
|Submitted By: ||M Sprague on Sep 21, 2010|
|Good Page?||0 people like this page. Your opinion: |
About to pull on ..err to the slab - climber: Todd...
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Fun varied climbing on 2 pitches, with a great view. The first pitch starts about 25 feet right of a large yellowish brown , right facing corner with a roof. Step off the bent birch tree on to an easy slab and mantle up onto an angling rail to clip the first bolt (spot or stick clip) Continue up and left past 2 more bolts to a thin crux on a headwall (foot sequence) that gets you to the bottom right side of the "mattress" flake. Plug a cam under it and layback up the right side until you can plug another cam up under a small roof (sling), then reach left across the flake and escape up and left to a rail. Protect with gear, then step up and make a balancy clip that protects you moving off a cool pocket to a flake and more pockets. Belay at the 2 bolt anchor above the horizontal.
Head up and right (bolt) to gain a series of nice flakes that climb at moderate difficulty, but maintain their spicyness by their flexibility. Place your gear carefully and use runners to keep your rope from getting caught. Reach an overlap, clip a bolt and balance onto the slab by means of a razor sidepull. 2 more bolts protect the interesting slab moves to the anchor
Located near the left end of the Main Wall, the first route right of the orange right facing corner. 3 bolts lead up a slab and face to a mattress sized flake under a small roof. Follow the directions under the route Blurry Eyes to get to this part of the cliff,
Pitch one: 4 bolts and gear up to #1 (red) Camalot. Use the #1 in a pocket just before the mid anchor.
Pitch 2: 4 bolts and small to mid cams. Use lots of shoulder length slings for the gear at the flakes. The marginal PG 13 is just to make note to be aware of possible expanding flakes when placing your gear on the second pitch.