I'm Not Afraid Anymore
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This nebulous route starts to the left of the Perfidious seam and climbs past a variety of bolts (the old guide says three; I remember at least five). Loose rock at the start gives way to strange, overhanging face climbing to a difficult slabby corner section. A VERY large, VERY loose flake hangs down atop this section like a huge dagger: It must be climbed but if possible, gear placement should be avoided until the next bolt can be reached (runout!). The flake might prompt an R/X rating. Slab climbing leads up towards the overhang, under which bats and owls nest. Urine and feces are in abundance under the roof. The top is beguiling; either climb straight over the guano-stained overhang (as indicated in the guide) or, as I did, traverse left under the roof, joining Disco Sucks (.10c) until a suitable belay can be found. Rope drag is serious at the end: bring long slings. Loose rock makes this an exciting if not dangerous venture, but the climbing is still quirky and enjoyable.
A better way to end this climb is at the Perfidious anchor, which, after the free ascent, is now two modern bolts with chains. If you want an adventure, continue onwards.
Approach as for Perfidious via a fifth class scramble and ledge walk.
Full rack to four inches, including doubles. Many long slings. No belay anchor; a rappel can be made from an anchor at the top, situated a plumb line above the new Perfidious anchor. Two rappels descend. Wear a helmet and make sure no one is below! A cam or two (smallish) are needed for the belay anchor at the base; a quarter inch bolt helps "protect" a move to start the climb/reach a suitable anchor location. Also, bees swarmed the crack below the initial belay the year we were up there (2006?); plan accordingly.
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