All Locations > S Dakota > Custer SP > Cathedral Spires > Land of Oz > I'm Melting Spire

I'm Melting

Name: I'm Melting
Rating: 4.0

5.9 YDS 5c French 17 Ewbanks VI UIAA 17 ZA HVS 5a British

Routes in I'm Melting Spire

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I'm Melting T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

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Type:	Trad, 100 ft (30 m)
FA:	Joel McKillop and Mark Ellefson (Ground Up)
Page Views:	851 total · 9/month
Shared By:	Orphaned User on Oct 2, 2016
Admins:	Peter Gram, Greg Parker, Mikel Madsen, Mark Rafferty Page Updates (admin only)

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Description

Classic five nine climbing that starts on a low angle slab and protects with some smaller gear up to a small roof that forces the climber right into a wide angle, chicken winging crack that soon gives up some of the best face climbing around. Place small gear and clip bolts on a gorgeous face of crystals to a picturesque summit. Feel the burn deep inside your red ruby slippers! This one will not die easily.

Location

Almost directly behind Lions share and downhill on the West face.

Protection

Standard Rack. Emphasis on smaller finger sized off set nuts and small cams. C3's to #3 C4 camalots. Long slings are a must. Those with 60 or 70 meter ropes will want to bring two of them. 80 meter to 100 meter ropes will get you off the summit with just one rope.