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Watanobe Wall
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Bored of the Rings T 
Come-n-Do-Me T 
Do Do TR 
Fire Me a Fart Burger T 
I'm Already Bored with the New Millennium T 
Season Opener T 
Wataneasy Route T 
Watanobe Wall T 
Yei-Bei-Chei Crack T 
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I'm Already Bored with the New Millennium 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Haber and Haber '99
Page Views: 354
Submitted By: Ryan Kelly on Aug 26, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2)
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BETA PHOTO: Follow up the obvious crack, or don't and go do so...

Description 

Short, awkward, offwidth and grainy at the top; this is for zero star aficionados only. There are plenty of other climbs in the area around this grade that are far superior.

Fairly easy climbing on big features outside of a wide crack leads to a very awkward move into a leaning, less than vertical off-width. Writhe to the top of that section, as the angle eases you can get out of the crack and head up any of the 4th / 5.0 paths to wherever you want to set an anchor.

Rappel off the back (Facing Sidewinder).


Location 

Up around the corner to the right of Season Opener. Scramble over some blocks and work around a large boulder. The route starts under a small roofish section leading to an offwidth set in a right-facing corner.


Protection 

Take a larger piece or two (a 4 is nice) for the OW, and a couple more pieces for the rest. Or just donít climb the route.



Comments on I'm Already Bored with the New Millennium Add Comment
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By Brandt Allen
From: Joshua Tree, Cal
Aug 27, 2008

I enjoyed this route.
The dislike that the poster seems to have for this climb may be more of a projection of his own personal preferences rather than any real problems with the route. While it's not a five-star classic, it's one of many ordinary JT climbs that that are well worth ticking off.

By Ryan Kelly
From: work.
Aug 28, 2008

I don't think anybody can give an opinion on a route completely devoid of personal preference. Even the best hand-sized splitters in the world have antagonists for one reason or another. More average routes and the obscure have an even wider range of opinions. Certainly an awkward, offwidth/chimney on grainy rock will have its opposition.

Iíve climbed plenty of Ďzero-star routesí at Jtree, anybody whoís spent some time there has. Hell, for many it turns into a bittersweet obsession. I may mention, or even recommend such routes to friends, but Iíll certainly preface it as a Ďzero-star routeí.

No, itís not a five-star classic; if I could give it half a star I would have. Unfortunately MP doesnít have a zero star rating, only a bomb; but with more votes it all evens out. I see you didnít vote at all.

By Brandt Allen
From: Joshua Tree, Cal
Aug 29, 2008

Upon re-reading the comment I wrote, I find it somewhat rude and demeaning. I apologize for being so thoughtless.

By Ryan Kelly
From: work.
Sep 2, 2008

No worries... no harm, no foul. I wrote the route description with a fair amount of tongue and cheek; yours was a fair statement.