Sign Up  |   Log In:Login with Facebook
REI Community
Watanobe Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Bored of the Rings T 
Come-n-Do-Me T 
Do Do TR 
Fire Me a Fart Burger T 
I'm Already Bored with the New Millennium T 
Season Opener T 
Wataneasy Route T 
Watanobe Wall T 
Yei-Bei-Chei Crack T 
Unsorted Routes:

I'm Already Bored with the New Millennium 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Haber and Haber '99
Page Views: 506
Submitted By: Ryan Kelly on Aug 26, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
BETA PHOTO: Follow up the obvious crack, or don't and go do so...


Short, awkward, offwidth and grainy at the top; this is for zero star aficionados only. There are plenty of other climbs in the area around this grade that are far superior.

Fairly easy climbing on big features outside of a wide crack leads to a very awkward move into a leaning, less than vertical off-width. Writhe to the top of that section, as the angle eases you can get out of the crack and head up any of the 4th / 5.0 paths to wherever you want to set an anchor.

Rappel off the back (Facing Sidewinder).


Up around the corner to the right of Season Opener. Scramble over some blocks and work around a large boulder. The route starts under a small roofish section leading to an offwidth set in a right-facing corner.


Take a larger piece or two (a 4 is nice) for the OW, and a couple more pieces for the rest. Or just don’t climb the route.

Comments on I'm Already Bored with the New Millennium Add Comment
Show which comments
By Brandt Allen
From: Joshua Tree, Cal
Aug 27, 2008

I enjoyed this route.
The dislike that the poster seems to have for this climb may be more of a projection of his own personal preferences rather than any real problems with the route. While it's not a five-star classic, it's one of many ordinary JT climbs that that are well worth ticking off.
By Ryan Kelly
From: work.
Aug 28, 2008

I don't think anybody can give an opinion on a route completely devoid of personal preference. Even the best hand-sized splitters in the world have antagonists for one reason or another. More average routes and the obscure have an even wider range of opinions. Certainly an awkward, offwidth/chimney on grainy rock will have its opposition.

I’ve climbed plenty of ‘zero-star routes’ at Jtree, anybody who’s spent some time there has. Hell, for many it turns into a bittersweet obsession. I may mention, or even recommend such routes to friends, but I’ll certainly preface it as a ‘zero-star route’.

No, it’s not a five-star classic; if I could give it half a star I would have. Unfortunately MP doesn’t have a zero star rating, only a bomb; but with more votes it all evens out. I see you didn’t vote at all.
By Brandt Allen
From: Joshua Tree, Cal
Aug 29, 2008

Upon re-reading the comment I wrote, I find it somewhat rude and demeaning. I apologize for being so thoughtless.
By Ryan Kelly
From: work.
Sep 2, 2008

No worries... no harm, no foul. I wrote the route description with a fair amount of tongue and cheek; yours was a fair statement.

The Definitive
Climbing Resource

Inspiration & Motivation
to Fuel Your Run

Next Generation Mountain
Bike Trail Maps

Backcountry, Sidecountry
& Secret Stashes

Better Data. Better Tools.
Better Hikes!