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Fucoidal Quartzite
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Unsorted Routes:

Illusions 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a/b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VI+ British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Mike Earns
Page Views: 950
Submitted By: Nathan Fisher on Feb 11, 2006
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You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (41)
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BETA PHOTO: 1. Illusions 5.10a
finish in chimney: 5.11a/b
fini...

Description 

Just right of Tiny Toons is this good sport route.


Protection 

7 bolts to anchors.



Photos of Illusions Slideshow Add Photo
1. Tiny Toons 5.5 <br />2. Illusions 5.10a
BETA PHOTO: 1. Tiny Toons 5.5
2. Illusions 5.10a
1.Limestone Cowboy 5.12a <br />2.Tiny Toons 5.5 <br />3.Illusions 5.10b <br />4.Adios Amigos 5.12a
BETA PHOTO: 1.Limestone Cowboy 5.12a
2.Tiny Toons 5.5
3.Illusi...
Comments on Illusions Add Comment
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By Price
From: SLC, UT
Aug 15, 2007
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b

Nice route. The NULC guidebook puts this at .10a but I agree that it's slightly harder just for the weird moves near the bottom (between #1 and #3)

By Ryan Peterson
From: North Salt Lake, Utah
Oct 16, 2007

This climb has a few variations, going up to the left or right from the bolts.

For a really fun route go up to the left and through the chimney to another set of chains. It's high, but you can still top-rope or lower to the ground with a 60m rope. Probably rates a 10c or so.

By alexa
From: logan
Jun 25, 2008

In my opinion, horrible climb, every hold is greasy, and it makes the whole climb sketchy. Way better climbs at fucoidal to do.

By BryceS
From: Hyrum Ut
Jul 22, 2010
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b

I had fun climbing Illusions There are some greasy holds. Its not the whole climb. I think its worth your time if your in the area FA: Mike Eames.

By Spencer Weiler
From: SLC, UT
Aug 3, 2010

Another harder variation is to continue up past the chimney anchors(mentioned in Ryan P.'s comments. NU gives this section 11a) and finish on Adios Amigos anchors. 12a/b.

By Connor England
From: Tooele, Utah
Sep 24, 2012
rating: 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ E2 5b

Super fun climb! Crux is definitely between 2nd and 3rd bolts. Just watch out for the hornets at the top by the chains! Ha... There were like 10 waiting to greet me.

By joslstap
Mar 29, 2014
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a

This is one of my favorite climbs in the canyon (first climbed it when I was 14 or so). I don't get around to it all that often due to the grease, but IMO a must do while in the area.