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 ADVANCED
South Cliffband
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Acid Rain S 
Another Lichen Nightmare S 
Crackerjack T 
Crystal Suppository S 
Dreamscape T,TR 
Dynabolic S 
Finger in the Socket S 
Illusion Dissolution S 
Just Say No to Crack S 
Leslie's Little Fingers (Atsa) S 
Prow, The S 
Rocket in My Pocket S 
Sanadine Dream S 
Shadowdancer S 
Unnamed S 

Illusion Dissolution 

YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Adam Read
Page Views: 275
Submitted By: Monomaniac on Jun 26, 2007

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At the first crux, using the more refined method t...

Description 

This engaging route offers three distinct sections of climbing, beginning with fun, easy jugs that end at a no-hands rest in the open book. From here, surmount the first crux over the steep bulge with either a huge crank from a good right-hand pocket, or use a more delicate sequence of side-pull crimps and sequential footwork.

Good jugs offer a well-earned shake. Traverse a bit right on stellar pockets, then up to a blind reach over the bulge to a sinker two-finger pocket. This move would be trivial if you could see the pocket. This stance offers a final shake before the second crux of rounded nobs and crimps on the mossy slab. Precise balance lead to jugs in the obvious horizontal crack, and easier pockets and nobs lead to the anchor.

Location 

This is the furthest right/south/east route on the Cochiti South Cliffband. Continue right/SE along the cliff base beyond Shadowdancer, across the rockslide. Pickup the cliff-base trail again, and follow to the last bolted route before the cliff peters out.

Protection 

Bolts. Two Bolt Anchor with NO lowering hardware (just two bolts with Metolius Hangers). Its possible to scramble up to the anchor to clean your gear and/or setup a TR, but its a real pain in the a$$.


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Illusion Dissolution.  This is the last/furthest r...
Illusion Dissolution. This is the last/furthest r...

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