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South Cliffband
Routes Sorted
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Acid Rain 
Another Lichen Nightmare 
Crackerjack 
Crystal Suppository 
Dreamscape 
Dynabolic 
Finger in the Socket 
Illusion Dissolution 
Just Say No to Crack 
Leslie's Little Fingers (Atsa) 
Prow, The 
Rocket in My Pocket 
Sanadine Dream 
Shadowdancer 
Unnamed 

Illusion Dissolution 

YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- British: E4 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Adam Read
Page Views: 258
Submitted By: Monomaniac on Jun 26, 2007
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At the first crux, using the more refined method t...

Description 

This engaging route offers three distinct sections of climbing, beginning with fun, easy jugs that end at a no-hands rest in the open book. From here, surmount the first crux over the steep bulge with either a huge crank from a good right-hand pocket, or use a more delicate sequence of side-pull crimps and sequential footwork.

Good jugs offer a well-earned shake. Traverse a bit right on stellar pockets, then up to a blind reach over the bulge to a sinker two-finger pocket. This move would be trivial if you could see the pocket. This stance offers a final shake before the second crux of rounded nobs and crimps on the mossy slab. Precise balance lead to jugs in the obvious horizontal crack, and easier pockets and nobs lead to the anchor.


Location 

This is the furthest right/south/east route on the Cochiti South Cliffband. Continue right/SE along the cliff base beyond Shadowdancer, across the rockslide. Pickup the cliff-base trail again, and follow to the last bolted route before the cliff peters out.


Protection 

Bolts. Two Bolt Anchor with NO lowering hardware (just two bolts with Metolius Hangers). Its possible to scramble up to the anchor to clean your gear and/or setup a TR, but its a real pain in the a$$.



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Illusion Dissolution.  This is the last/furthest right route on the South Cliffband.
Illusion Dissolution. This is the last/furthest r...
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