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Casey almost to the second anchor on Illuminati.
70m, 29 bolts, this is a LOONG route. This route breaks up into three sections with midway anchors. Start up the arete with some hard moves off the ground before you can pull over on the slab. Enjoy straight forward climbing until the angle starts to steepens below a set of crack features. Slap up the seams, rails and cracks until you can get established on good holds. Pull up to the first anchor on good jugs. This section is mostly 5.10+ with a distinct 5.11a/b crux. Traverse left from the belay and up on a series of cracks sidepulls and small holds. Following the obvious holds take you off to the left of the bolt line and towards Bio Luinescent. This second section to the Elixir anchor seems to be around 11d. If you stick more to the bolt line it will be closer to 12a.
Get a good rest at the Elixir anchor and head off for the crux of Illuminati. Start right from the anchor and then drift back left on amazing patina crimps and shallow seams. Fight the rope drag through a hard boulder problem on small holds, 12b, and pull up to good holds. Enjoy a final romp up easy 5.11 to a anchor way high up the wall. Either rappel here or climb another 5 feet to a higher anchor where you could belay up a second climber.
This is on the right side of the Main Wall. The route starts on a small arete. A stick clip is nice for the first bolt.
30 bolts. Make sure to bring at least 8 alpine draws and one double length sling for the Elixir anchor. All anchors are setup for rappel with a 60m rope. With a 70m rope you can skip the Elixir anchor.
By J. Albers
Nov 16, 2015
Such amazing stone....so good.