Illness/Extended Illness  5.13c

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Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 120 feet Consensus:  5.13c [details] FA:  ??? Submitted By:  Drewsky on Jul 20, 2008 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

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Description 

This route has a harder crux than Chronic and adds 30 extra feet of balancy 5.11/12 climbing to an anchor above that of Chronic. A further extension above this offers 50 or so more feet of climbing with a couple of interesting cruxes and a harder grade, maybe .13c/d?

Location 

Departs right from Chronic below the upper roof crux. Although I am uncertain, I believe Illness ends at the first anchor above Chronic (which can also be reached directly from Chronic via Lizard Prince), while Extended Illness continues up to a second anchor for a 40m pitch (perhaps .13c/d). Climbed via Chronic, this would be called Lizard Queen (or King?). Confusing enough? All of the linkups/extensions are very good, however. A 70m certainly lowers from the first anchor; if the full 40m extended pitch is done, one must pull the rope at one of the lower anchors.

Protection 

Bolts. If the "extra extended" version is done, one will need to bring 5 quickdraws and possibly carabiners for the top anchor (needs hardware).