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Illness/Extended Illness 

YDS: 5.13c French: 8a+ Ewbanks: 30 UIAA: X- ZA: 31 British: E7 7a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 120'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.13c French: 8a+ Ewbanks: 30 UIAA: X- ZA: 31 British: E7 7a [details]
FA: ???
Page Views: 680
Submitted By: Drewsky on Jul 20, 2008

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Description 

This route has a harder crux than Chronic and adds 30 extra feet of balancy 5.11/12 climbing to an anchor above that of Chronic. A further extension above this offers 50 or so more feet of climbing with a couple of interesting cruxes and a harder grade, maybe .13c/d?

Location 

Departs right from Chronic below the upper roof crux. Illness ends at the first anchor above Chronic (which can also be reached directly from Chronic via Lizard Prince), while Extended Illness continues up to a second anchor for a 40m pitch (perhaps .13c/d). In any case, everyone calls the short version Extended Illness. By climbing straight above Chronic to the same anchor(s), this would be called Lizard Queen (or King?). Confusing enough? All of the linkups/extensions are very good, however. A 70m certainly lowers from the first anchor; if the full 40m extended pitch is done, one must pull the rope at one of the lower anchors.

Protection 

Bolts. If the "extra extended" version is done, one will need to bring 5 quickdraws and possibly carabiners for the top anchor (needs hardware).


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