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The Beaver Wall
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Who Need's Friends 

Who Need's Friends 

5.12a PG13

   

FA: Chris Schmick and Greg Thomas (sport) Andy Boone and Dan Caldwell (trad)
Type: Trad
Consensus: 5.11d [details]
Length: 1 pitch, 65 feet
Views: 178 page views

Submitted By: Jon Richard on Feb 20, 2008


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BETA PHOTO: Placing my first piece from lay down rest.


Description 

Overhung the whole way. Make awkward hard moves to full body rest 20' feet up. Take a deep breath and climb the steep crack using jams and face holds to a pumpy and slightly run-out finish above bomber gear. The route is called "Who Needs Friends" because it was bolted. IMHO I think it climbs nicely as a trad route.


Protection 

Bring a large piece (#4 or #5 camalot) for the beginning and then varied sizes the rest of the way (yellow alien through #3 camalot) or just clip the 6 bolts to 2 bolt anchor.



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Settting up for the pumpy finish!

Settting up for the pumpy finish!

Topping out "who needs friends". I did clip the last bolt as this was my first attempt at doing this route entirely on gear.

Topping out "who needs friends". I did clip the la...

Nearing the anchor on what was probably the first trad onsight of this route (3/26/06). photo by H.

Nearing the anchor on what was probably the first ...

Playing "skip the steel".

Playing "skip the steel".


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By chrispy
From: Tucson, AZ
Jul 21, 2008
rating: 5.11+

The crux comes early and you get a full lay-down rest after. Honestly, this feels more like 11+ but I'm probably just stirring the nest. Terrific jugs almost the whole way so it's all about endurance. Did the first gear onsight and skipped the last bolt/placement. Heard that the last undercling popped, which would make things a bit different.