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Draper's Bluff

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Draper's Bluff

Submitted By: Jon Richard on Jan 23, 2007
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Draper's Bluff is closed to climbing as of May 2009

On the Bloody Nose P1


Description 

Great Sandstone climbing. Many classic 5 star trad lines. Must do climbs include Ant Killer (5.9), Southern Exposure (5.10a), High Over Camp (5.10a tricky crux) and Bloody Nose (5.6)


Getting There 

I 57 South from Marion, IL to Lick Creek Exit. Go left for a few miles (it's on the right)


The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Draper's Bluff:
Bloody Nose   5.6     Trad, 2 pitches, 100 feet   
C-Crack   5.7     Trad, 1 pitch, 70 feet   
C-Crack Direct   5.8+     Trad, 1 pitch, 90 feet   
Ant Killer   5.9     Trad, 2 pitches, 100 feet   
Southern Exposure   5.10a     Trad, 2 pitches, 110 feet   
Browse More Classics in Draper's Bluff

Featured Route For Draper's Bluff
The start of Ant Killer

Ant Killer 5.9  IL : Draper's Bluff
Fantastic 5.9 Dihedral Crack. P2 not as classic....[more]   Browse More Classics in IL


Photos of Draper's Bluff Slideshow Add Photo
Ant Killer Crux

Ant Killer Crux

Climbing Steep 1st Pitch of Southern Exposure.

Climbing Steep 1st Pitch of Southern Exposure.

Sunset at Drapers Bluff

Sunset at Drapers Bluff


Comments on Draper's Bluff Add Comment
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By Ben Bruestle
From: Pueblo, CO
Sep 21, 2008

Park at the "Vertical Heartland" parking lot and make sure to register. The approach is about 10 minutes. Camping is available just a little further down Lick Creek Road at Twin Bluffs Bed n' Breakfast. The proprietors Neil and Laurie will let you camp in their field for a nominal donation. They also have a bunkhouse with fireplace for winter climbers.

By Courtney Coe
From: Denver, CO
Nov 26, 2008

Directions are a little difficult to follow....it's exit #36 from I-57, and when you head east, you go for about 2.4 miles and the parking area and trailhead are on the left, not the right. There's a sign there that says "Vertical Heartland."

It's an awesome place, but none of the climbs are marked, so try to find a guide book if you can!!

By ilclimberken
From: Brighton, Illinois
May 19, 2009

With the new changes in illinois state laws this area has closed. Info @ http://www.rockclimbing.com/cgi-bin/forum/gforum.cgi?post=21>>>>>

By Christian M. Lenn
From: Evansville,IN
May 25, 2009

Draper's Bluff is now closed to all public use. Apparently a change in the Illinois public or Recreational use statute exposed the owners to unconscionable liability(prohibited non climbers also caused some unexplained risks to the climbers) this is a tragic situation. the Ulners(property owners) actively supported climbing at their crag which I felt was unique for SoIll.(instead of climbing down in a hollow the upper part of the cliff was exposed and offered fabulous panoramic views. I am sorry to report this.

By Corey Morris
From: Onalaska, WI
Jun 8, 2009

This truly is a crying shame.