Another great route just to the right of Pygmy Alien. Follow 10 painted red pitons 10-15 right of the Alien to the same belay. The first piton is in the black square of varnish right above the fiction slab. Two pitons can be clipped with long runners on the runout fiction slab. The crux is at the first piton, with a secondary crux about 2/3th of the way up the route. The climbing consists of continuous 5.9 climbing on crimps, mantles, and high steps.
Two pitons with quick links are found about 80 ft up. These could be used for a single rope rap.
|By Ken Heiser|
From: Boulder, CO
Feb 8, 2005
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
I really enjoyed this one. Super excellent sustained climbing on beutiful rock.
From: West Jordan, Utah
Oct 8, 2010
Fun onsite. Sustained and precarious at times. I hate sandstone, you never know when it's gonna break.