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Sunset Cliff
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Avenger, The T 
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I'll be Black S 
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I'll be Black 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Tom Perkins, M. Stricklen 1991
Page Views: 2,389
Submitted By: j wharton on Jun 27, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (29)
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Moving right after the initial crux.

Description 

This is an excellent, thin face climb which climbs the obvious black streak. A few thin moves at 2/3rds height provide the crux.


Location 

This is located above a ledge system approximately 30' above the base of the crag - it requires a short 4th-class scramble to reach the base.


Protection 

Bolts to a chain anchor.



Photos of I'll be Black Slideshow Add Photo
Finishing the first crux at the second bolt.
Finishing the first crux at the second bolt.
The final crux. From here, you move left and up to the anchors.
The final crux. From here, you move left and up to...
Comments on I'll be Black Add Comment
Show which comments
By Steven Lucarelli
From: Moab, UT
Jun 23, 2008
rating: 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

This is a great route but it might be slightly sandbagged.

By Tom T
Aug 14, 2008

A total sandbag IMO.....balancy, sequential crux on tiny feet and direction-dependent hand holds. I could have missed some key beta or just be a wuss, but I'd give 'er a 10d redpoint or 11a onsight.

By Steven Lucarelli
From: Moab, UT
Sep 9, 2008
rating: 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

I'd say 10d/11a is a bit much. I was thinking more along the lines of 10c, but grades are so subjective anyway.

By Ivan Rezucha
From: Fort Collins, CO
Aug 15, 2010

Clipping the second bolt pretty much sucked. Clipping it from below you'd be in the middle of a crux move with a ledge fall. I was able to clip it leaning off the crack on the right, but even that was a bit dicey. This was a great climb, and a great looking climb, with hard moves sometimes above the bolts but with good rests in between.

By Dr. Evil
From: Boulder, CO
Sep 11, 2011

This climb is amazingly fun. Must do.

By AOSR
From: Wherever we park!
Jun 4, 2012
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b

Prob a bit harder than 10b and with some spacey bolts, but a stellar route. Rare when a granite sport climb reminds me of climbing limestone....