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 ADVANCED
Da Butts
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Buttkicker T 
Dumb-De-Dumb-Dumb T,S 
Ho De Do T 
Igor Unleashed T,S 
Kayla's Way S 
Nazi's Demise T 
Roll Dem Bones T 
Showcase T 
Smegma Burns T 

Igor Unleashed 

YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: M. Brown / J. Buhl
Season: Year round
Page Views: 486
Submitted By: Jeff Buhl on Sep 17, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (5)
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Description 

Although short, I found this to be a nice route with some interesting /technical moves.

The crux is establishing yourself on the face and then moving through very technical and thin climbing past three bolts.

Location 

Find the first line of 4 bolts to left of Ho De Dum.

Protection 

The pro is 6-7 draws + an optional 0.75 -1" piece for the final run to the bolted anchor.

Per Alex A: the hangers are missing. There are bolt studs and the top anchors.


Comments on Igor Unleashed Add Comment
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By Jason Haas
From: Broomfield, CO
Mar 13, 2010

Personally, I thought the climbing was rather mellow until the third bolt, where you leave that little ledge rest and then fairly tame again once you've clipped the fourth bolt. Also, 5 bolts in all.

As for a grade, I didn't check this site to see what this route was before I got on it and am surprised the grade is as low as it is. I would have said 11d had someone asked me.
By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
Mar 12, 2012
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

Well, forget that flat chip for the left hand at the crux - I leaned back on it to shift a foot, and both it and I went airborne.... The hold is now uneven and very sharp and thin. Thin enough to sever the skin off of "pinged" fingers.
The move is a lot harder now. As my partner said it - this is an "evolutionary" route....
Get on it with thick, fresh tips.
By Brady Robinson
Mar 12, 2012
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

Crux is gnarly and still evolving. Pretty hard even at 12a if you asked me, but I'm not a slab master....
By Alex A
Jun 16, 2014

FYI, the hangers are missing, only bolt studs and the top anchor,
By Jeff Buhl
Jul 14, 2014

Thanks Alex,

Next time I am out there I will bring some new ones. It's a shame folks are still doing this type of thing.
Jeff