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 ADVANCED
Echo Rock- East Face
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Bambi meets Godzilla T 
Beadwagon T 
Closed on Mondays T 
Finger Food T 
Frumunda Cheese T 
Gumby saves Bambi T 
Igor Prince of Poodles T 
Lot Lizard TR 
Menace, The S 
Mother Trucker T 
Second Thoughts T 

Igor Prince of Poodles 

YDS: 5.11+ French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 24 British: E4 6a R

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11+ French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Charles Cole & Karen Peil, 1991
Page Views: 427
Submitted By: Will S on Nov 9, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4)
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BETA PHOTO: Igor Price of Poodles, #1663

Description 

This bolted face route, immediately right of Finger Food, is continuously difficult, tenuous, and interesting climbing for the first 30' after which it eases a bit to more straightforward JT slab work. Stem, palm, crimp and smear your way up the shallow corner until it disappears and a decent face hold and crimpy dike appear. Engineer a sequence to mount these and you can finally rest and compose yourself for the upper half of the pitch.

Location 

Immediately right of Finger Food.

Protection 

Bolted, but poorly, IMO. If you fall clipping the second bolt, you will deck. Ideally there would be another bolt between 1 and 2, but there isn't and the moves there could well be the crux. A bold lead for sure considering the insecurity of the climbing. Once the second bolt is clipped, the route is safe enough. I'd recommend either a stick clip or crashpad unless you are super dialed on 11+ JT friction and stemming.


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By Nick Sullens
From: Yosemite/ Weed
Feb 21, 2012
rating: 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13

I've led this twice now. There is a risk of groundfall while clipping the second bolt, but it is also a pretty secure stance (secure per the route). An excellent route nonetheless.
By C Miller
Administrator
Feb 21, 2012
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13

Thin and insecure through the lower portion with some tenuous clips, overall a great test of footwork and body positioning. If leading consider a crashpad and/or a single locking biner on the 1st bolt.

Hand-drilled ground-up from stances on the first ascent.
By RTM
Feb 22, 2012

A long time ago (mid '90s?), a friend of mine went to climb this and ripped a substancial hold from the middle of the route. We weren't sure if it was still climbable after that. Is it still climbable?
By C Miller
Administrator
Feb 22, 2012
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13

Yes, still climbable at the given grade - it sounds like your friend gave you bad beta.
By RTM
Feb 28, 2012

The thing clocked me in me melon - it felt substancial!I remember thinking "the only hold on the route, and he rips it off". Prolly spent the rest of the day bouldering after that.