Igor Prince of Poodles 5.11+ R
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| Type: | Trad, 1 pitch, 50 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.11+ [details] |
| FA: | Charles Cole & Karen Peil, 1991 |
| Submitted By: | Will S on Nov 9, 2008 |
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BETA PHOTO: Igor Price of Poodles, #1663
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Description This bolted face route, immediately right of Finger Food, is continuously difficult, tenuous, and interesting climbing for the first 30' after which it eases a bit to more straightforward JT slab work. Stem, palm, crimp and smear your way up the shallow corner until it disappears and a decent face hold and crimpy dike appear. Engineer a sequence to mount these and you can finally rest and compose yourself for the upper half of the pitch.
Location Immediately right of Finger Food.
Protection Bolted, but poorly, IMO. If you fall clipping the second bolt, you will deck. Ideally there would be another bolt between 1 and 2, but there isn't and the moves there could well be the crux. A bold lead for sure considering the insecurity of the climbing. Once the second bolt is clipped, the route is safe enough. I'd recommend either a stick clip or crashpad unless you are super dialed on 11+ JT friction and stemming.
| Comments on Igor Prince of Poodles |
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By Nick Sullens
From: Hong Kong, Hong Kong
Feb 21, 2012
rating: 5.11+ PG13
| I've led this twice now. There is a risk of groundfall while clipping the second bolt, but it is also a pretty secure stance (secure per the route). An excellent route nonetheless. |
By C Miller
Administrator
Feb 21, 2012
rating: 5.11c PG13
| Thin and insecure through the lower portion with some tenuous clips, overall a great test of footwork and body positioning. If leading consider a crashpad and/or a single locking biner on the 1st bolt.
Hand-drilled ground-up from stances on the first ascent. |
By RTM
Feb 22, 2012
| A long time ago (mid '90s?), a friend of mine went to climb this and ripped a substancial hold from the middle of the route. We weren't sure if it was still climbable after that. Is it still climbable? |
By C Miller
Administrator
Feb 22, 2012
rating: 5.11c PG13
| Yes, still climbable at the given grade - it sounds like your friend gave you bad beta. |
By RTM
Feb 28, 2012
| The thing clocked me in me melon - it felt substancial!I remember thinking "the only hold on the route, and he rips it off". Prolly spent the rest of the day bouldering after that. |
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