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Along with so many fixed-pro face routes, this is yet another route to receive a facelift. Around '96 (I think), there was a bolt added midway up the pitch and the last bolt was turned into a 2-bolt lower off anchor. For safety or convenience sake, this has become more popular a lead (even though the new guide still lists an "s" rating and not an updated topo).
Start Ignition 20 or so feet left of the Direct Start of the Yellow Spur at a shallow, right-facing corner. A tricky mantel is followed by thin crux moves up the arete, then out right to better holds. Glide up past three bolts on dark red and tan stone (.11) to a downward pointed flake (optional nut). Move right to the leaning corner/roof past a bolt, then back left to the anchor.
Note that the route can continue straight up over the roof and joins Over the Shoulder Stuff (via One and a Half Hours of Power) Confused?
7 bolts, optional cam #0.75 Camalot, 2 bolt anchor (60'). The rappel is 50'.
|By Darren Mabe|
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Sep 15, 2003
Certainly not 's'. 7 bolts to 2 bolt anchor. Probably not a move of 12a, but the first 4 bolts felt pretty sustained at 11+. After the sixth bolt, it is a quite a ways to the last bolt, but is largely on jugs...just keep moving, a fall here would be big. Before the last bolt (8 feet below), however, is a good 0.75 Camalot on the left side of the flake. The 10ish move above the last bolt can be climbed straight through with long reaches to crimps and powerful lock-off on the jug. Excellent route on perfect stone. Great movement.
|By Chris Archer|
Mar 15, 2004
Great route. I agree that it doesn't deserve the seriousness rating. The crux is a 2 move boulder problem passing the second bolt that is difficult to decipher. 12a onsight, 11d if you know what to do.
|By Charles Vernon|
From: Florence, AZ
Mar 15, 2004
This is about as close as I've seen in Eldo to a sport climb. Chris, your comments about the grade are right on. There is also a no-hands stem just after the crux, making it even more of a boulder problem. On redpoint, I found this route to be about a full number grade easier than Apple Strudel!
All that aside, this route has nothing but great, varied, technical moves for its entire length.
|By Ken Trout|
From: Golden, CO
Oct 28, 2008
Correction per stealth bolting: I put in the fifth bolt after permission was voted upon and granted by the bolt-committee. Our reason to add a bolt was that we had (painfully) proven the trad pro was not really good. Ric Leitner had blown the large steel-nut placement, above the fourth bolt, with a resulting fall that landed him in the tree, mostly undamaged. The blown-nut scar is still visible in the lie-back section, close to the new bolt.