Ignition 5.11d
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| Type: | Sport, 1 pitch, 60 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.11d [details] |
| FA: | Various Additions |
| Fixed Hardware: | 4 Lead Bolts, 2 Belay Bolts [details] |
| Submitted By: | Alex Shainman on Jan 1, 2001 |
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2013 Raptor Nesting Closure in effect - NOW LIFTED MORE INFO >>>
As of Feb. 1, 2013, a seasonal wildlife closure is in effect on Redgarden Wall in Eldorado Canyon State Park to protect nesting and roosting sites of the canyon’s falcons. The closure starts Feb. 1 through July 31, or until further notice and includes the following climbing routes: The Naked Edge (last 3 pitches only), The Diving Board, Centaur, Redguard (last 3 pitches only), Red Ant, Semi-Wild, Anthill Direct (last 3 pitches only), and The Sidetrack. For more info, visit dnr.state.co.us/newsapp/press.asp?PressId=8152 From an Eldorado Canyon tweet, the Redgarden Wall closures were lifted May 6, 2013.
This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund,
and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates.
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Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment
Action Committee for Eldorado
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Description Along with so many fixed-pro face routes, this is yet another route to receive a facelift. Around '96 (I think), there was a bolt added midway up the pitch and the last bolt was turned into a 2-bolt lower off anchor. For safety or convenience sake, this has become more popular a lead (even though the new guide still lists an "s" rating and not an updated topo). Start Ignition 20 or so feet left of the Direct Start of the Yellow Spur at a shallow, right-facing corner. A tricky mantel is followed by thin crux moves up the arete, then out right to better holds. Glide up past three bolts on dark red and tan stone (.11) to a downward pointed flake (optional nut). Move right to the leaning corner/roof past a bolt, then back left to the anchor. Note that the route can continue straight up over the roof and joins Over the Shoulder Stuff (via One and a Half Hours of Power) Confused?
Protection 7 bolts, optional cam #0.75 Camalot, 2 bolt anchor (60'). The rappel is 50'.
By Darren Mabe From: Flagstaff, AZ Sep 15, 2003
| Certainly not 's'. 7 bolts to 2 bolt anchor. Probably not a move of 12a, but the first 4 bolts felt pretty sustained at 11+. After the sixth bolt, it is a quite a ways to the last bolt, but is largely on jugs...just keep moving, a fall here would be big. Before the last bolt (8 feet below), however, is a good 0.75 Camalot on the left side of the flake. The 10ish move above the last bolt can be climbed straight through with long reaches to crimps and powerful lock-off on the jug. Excellent route on perfect stone. Great movement. |
By Chris Archer Mar 15, 2004 rating: 5.12a
| Great route. I agree that it doesn't deserve the seriousness rating. The crux is a 2 move boulder problem passing the second bolt that is difficult to decipher. 12a onsight, 11d if you know what to do. |
By Charles Vernon From: Florence, AZ Mar 15, 2004
| This is about as close as I've seen in Eldo to a sport climb. Chris, your comments about the grade are right on. There is also a no-hands stem just after the crux, making it even more of a boulder problem. On redpoint, I found this route to be about a full number grade easier than Apple Strudel! All that aside, this route has nothing but great, varied, technical moves for its entire length. |
By Ken Trout From: Golden, CO Oct 28, 2008
| Correction per stealth bolting: I put in the fifth bolt after permission was voted upon and granted by the bolt-committee. Our reason to add a bolt was that we had (painfully) proven the trad pro was not really good. Ric Leitner had blown the large steel-nut placement, above the fourth bolt, with a resulting fall that landed him in the tree, mostly undamaged. The blown-nut scar is still visible in the lie-back section, close to the new bolt. |
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