Beginning Feb. 1st each year, a seasonal wildlife closure will be in effect on Redgarden Wall in Eldorado Canyon State Park to protect nesting and roosting sites of the canyon’s falcons. The closure is in effect through July 31st unless lifted early due to early fledging or inactivity.
The closure includes the following climbing routes: The Naked Edge (last 3 pitches only), The Diving Board, Centaur, Redguard (last 3 pitches only), Red Ant, Semi-Wild, Anthill Direct (last 3 pitches only), and The Sidetrack.
Along with so many fixed-pro face routes, this is yet another route to receive a facelift. Around '96 (I think), there was a bolt added midway up the pitch and the last bolt was turned into a 2-bolt lower off anchor. For safety or convenience sake, this has become more popular a lead (even though the new guide still lists an "s" rating and not an updated topo).
Start Ignition 20 or so feet left of the Direct Start of the Yellow Spur at a shallow, right-facing corner. A tricky mantel is followed by thin crux moves up the arete, then out right to better holds. Glide up past three bolts on dark red and tan stone (.11) to a downward pointed flake (optional nut). Move right to the leaning corner/roof past a bolt, then back left to the anchor.
By Darren Mabe From: Flagstaff, AZ Sep 15, 2003 rating: 5.12-7a+25VIII+25E5 6a
Certainly not 's'. 7 bolts to 2 bolt anchor. Probably not a move of 12a, but the first 4 bolts felt pretty sustained for only 11+. After the sixth bolt, it is a quite a ways to the last bolt, but it is largely on jugs...just keep moving, a fall here would be big. Before the last bolt (8 feet below), however, is a good 0.75 Camalot on the left side of the flake. The 10ish move above the last bolt can be climbed straight through with long reaches to crimps and powerful lock-off on the jug. Excellent route on perfect stone. Great movement.
Great route. I agree that it doesn't deserve the seriousness rating. The crux is a 2 move boulder problem passing the second bolt that is difficult to decipher. 12a onsight, 11d if you know what to do.
This is about as close as I've seen in Eldo to a sport climb. Chris, your comments about the grade are right on. There is also a no-hands stem just after the crux, making it even more of a boulder problem. On redpoint, I found this route to be about a full number grade easier than Apple Strudel!
All that aside, this route has nothing but great, varied, technical moves for its entire length.
Correction per stealth bolting: I put in the fifth bolt after permission was voted upon and granted by the bolt-committee. Our reason to add a bolt was that we had (painfully) proven the trad pro was not really good. Ric Leitner had blown the large steel-nut placement, above the fourth bolt, with a resulting fall that landed him in the tree, mostly undamaged. The blown-nut scar is still visible in the lie-back section, close to the new bolt.
One of my favorite sport climbs in Eldorado. I was the person who put the anchor at the end of this pitch and placed what is now the 6th bolt in 1989. The anchor was not the last bolt as stated in the description. At the time, I was thinking I might be doing a first ascent, but it turned out Dan Hare had already climbed the route continuing up the crack above the anchor. The last (now 7th bolt) was already there along with a fixed stopper below it, but I thought maybe this is where "The Untouchables" finished. I first led the 5.10 run-out off gear but was very concerned that a fall would break the flake the medium stopper was behind. Charlie Fowler established the first 4 bolts (crux) of the route in 1987 but finished by traversing right to finish up the first pitch of the "Yellow Spur".
I also replaced the anchor & several of the bolts in the late 1990s with Rick Leitner. The remaining 4th & last bolts have since been replaced by someone else. The 1st bolt is still an original bolt & seem quite safe.
I place #6 & 7 stoppers in the same vertical slot 6 feet below the last bolt. This climb would be terrifying without placing gear here.
I think this climb definitely deserves a 5.12a rating. Compare it to so many other Front Range climbs of this grade. The crux at 2nd bolt is technical & thin. Then the climb is sustained & pumpy all the way to the anchor. Lastly, the climb's 2nd pitch (5.10+ trad) is rarely done.