|Type:||Sport, 1 pitch, 60'|
|Original:||YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]|
|Fixed Hardware:||4 Lead Bolts, 2 Belay Bolts [details]|
|Submitted By:||Alex Shainman on Jan 1, 2001|
|Comments on Ignition||Add Comment|
|Show which comments —
By Darren Mabe
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Sep 15, 2003
rating: 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
|Certainly not 's'. 7 bolts to 2 bolt anchor. Probably not a move of 12a, but the first 4 bolts felt pretty sustained for only 11+. After the sixth bolt, it is a quite a ways to the last bolt, but it is largely on jugs...just keep moving, a fall here would be big. Before the last bolt (8 feet below), however, is a good 0.75 Camalot on the left side of the flake. The 10ish move above the last bolt can be climbed straight through with long reaches to crimps and powerful lock-off on the jug. Excellent route on perfect stone. Great movement.|
By Chris Archer
Mar 15, 2004
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
|Great route. I agree that it doesn't deserve the seriousness rating. The crux is a 2 move boulder problem passing the second bolt that is difficult to decipher. 12a onsight, 11d if you know what to do.|
By Ken Trout
From: Golden, CO
Oct 28, 2008
|Correction per stealth bolting: I put in the fifth bolt after permission was voted upon and granted by the bolt-committee. Our reason to add a bolt was that we had (painfully) proven the trad pro was not really good. Ric Leitner had blown the large steel-nut placement, above the fourth bolt, with a resulting fall that landed him in the tree, mostly undamaged. The blown-nut scar is still visible in the lie-back section, close to the new bolt.|
By Mark Rolofson
Dec 5, 2013
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
One of my favorite sport climbs in Eldorado. I was the person who put the anchor at the end of this pitch and placed what is now the 6th bolt in 1989. The anchor was not the last bolt as stated in the description. At the time, I was thinking I might be doing a first ascent, but it turned out Dan Hare had already climbed the route continuing up the crack above the anchor. The last (now 7th bolt) was already there along with a fixed stopper below it, but I thought maybe this is where "The Untouchables" finished. I first led the 5.10 run-out off gear but was very concerned that a fall would break the flake the medium stopper was behind. Charlie Fowler established the first 4 bolts (crux) of the route in 1987 but finished by traversing right to finish up the first pitch of the "Yellow Spur".
I also replaced the anchor & several of the bolts in the late 1990s with Rick Leitner. The remaining 4th & last bolts have since been replaced by someone else. The 1st bolt is still an original bolt & seem quite safe.
I place #6 & 7 stoppers in the same vertical slot 6 feet below the last bolt. This climb would be terrifying without placing gear here.
I think this climb definitely deserves a 5.12a rating. Compare it to so many other Front Range climbs of this grade. The crux at 2nd bolt is technical & thin. Then the climb is sustained & pumpy all the way to the anchor. Lastly, the climb's 2nd pitch (5.10+ trad) is rarely done.
By Alex Shainman
Sep 29, 2014
|Did Ignition a couple days ago, probably had been 4-5 years. Heads up with the big, downward pointing flake between the last two bolts - it's WAY more expando with a nice vibrato than it used to be. I would no longer recommend putting ANY cam or nut in either side of it and only pull down, not out! Just sayin'! Just left of the bottom of the flake is a so-so horizontal med. nut placement but...just don't fall before the last bolt and tread lightly.|