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Lost World Butte
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IF 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a C3-

   
Type:  Trad, Aid, 3 pitches, 260', Grade III
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a C3- [details]
FA: Paul Ross Layne Potter
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 636
Submitted By: USBRIT on Dec 2, 2009

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At the overhang P1

Description 

P1)begin with TCU's up the obvious crack then up to #6 friends to surmount the roof at its top.5.9,C3,100' p2 Continue up a wide crack with #3.5 through #4 friends. then an overhanging crack to a good ledge and belay .5.9 C2 80'P3 A short bolt ladder leads up and right to reach a traverse line of slabs and pockets. Traverse about40' to a groove ,passing a drilled angle piton and one bolt.when the overhanging crack is reached just below the top ,wriggle through a tight hole to the summit. Anchors for the belay and rappel are 60' to the east(right)5.7 C1 120'Hike to the western summit to fine views and register.Descent Rap anchors are directly above P3 belay;ay . Make one single rope rap to the chimney belay ,then one double rope rap to the start of P1.More anchors for a final rap are 50' to the east.


Location 

The route is approximately 600' left of The Not Road Taken.From the flat rock parking area walk directly north to the Butte and behind the short fat tower the FA party fourth classed up two short chimneys. When the ledge and slabs below the cliff proper are reached traverse the ledges to the right for about 200' to the base of the very impressive corner crack of the first pitch. The climb has excellent situations.


Protection 

Standard desert rack with extra friends #3.5 through #4 Two #5 and two #6. Four wire hangers(or stoppers)Two 60m ropes



Photos of IF Slideshow Add Photo
Rapping down P1
Rapping down P1
On P1
On P1
Tele photo. Exiting the roof crack ... tipped out #6's.
Tele photo. Exiting the roof crack ... tipped out ...
Comments on IF Add Comment
Show which comments
By Jay Brown
From: Aspen, Colorado
Dec 4, 2009

i don't understand all the aid?

By slim
Administrator
Dec 4, 2009

apparently because sport climbing at shelf road is too easy....

By nooky brown
Dec 4, 2009

Yeah, that tipped out 6" wide crack looks easy, get down there and tell us how it is.
Looks like a bunch of that stuff needs freeing, I look forward to hearing about it from you.

By USBRIT
From: Cumbria.UK
Dec 4, 2009

We have to clean it off for the "free" shouting "take" climbers .However I am not sure if you one pitch climbers can handle it ? But if you do fancy your chances its all yours.I would be delighted to watch....PS To Slim Jim....No sport climbing at Shelf Road is way too SAFE.....To Nooky ..don't hold you breath about those guys freeing anything down here!!!!

By slim
Administrator
Dec 6, 2009

just bustin' your chunks, ye olde coffin dodger. i'll have to check it out if i am in the area some time. i love the wide.

By USBRIT
From: Cumbria.UK
Dec 6, 2009

Good Show Slim... I have a feeling you would not like the wide bit on the climb IF ? however it would be a second ascent !I will take pics.. Cheers

By slim
Administrator
Dec 6, 2009

looks pretty nice, what's not to like? would i get some sand in my boots, like some other dude a few years back? sounds like there are several other routes in the area that have some wide on them. the photos that i have seen of them look pretty nice. entrada though, the original pitbull with lipstick...!

By USBRIT
From: Cumbria.UK
Dec 7, 2009

Well you may get a little sand in your boots! These climbs as you probably know are for adventure only and this type of climbing is not too popular with most of today's youth.What you see from the ground (or photo's) is not always what you will find.