|Saddle Rocks - Skirt (West Face)
Start right of Walk On The Wild Side and just right of Negro Girls.
Pitch 1) 5.10b R/X - Climb 20 feet up to the first bolt, clip the bolt and traverse left to second bolt. Clip the second bolt and run it out to the third bolt at a bulge. Mantle over the bulge and run it out at least 30 feet to the fourth bolt. A fall from this section (before the fourth bolt) would surely be life threatening. Clip the fourth bolt and make a hard move to the right reaching the fifth bolt. Crank over the bulge and reach the anchor.
Pitch 2) 5.10a R - Climb up and a little left of the anchor. Run it out 30-35 feet to the first bolt. Clip the bolt and head right up to second bolt. Big fall potential if blow any of the clips. Angle a little right and then straight up to a two-bolt anchor. Rap or follow the third pitch of "Walk on the Wild Side" to the top and walk off.
Essentially a more runout variation to the first pitch of the route Negro Girls; the second pitch is the same as that route.
P1) 5 bolts to bolted anchor/rap, P2) 2 bolts to bolted anchor/rap
|By Isaac Shirley|
Jul 9, 2013
Did the first pitch of this one thinking I was on Walk on the wild side. Never going to do it again unless I have a death wish. If you fell before clipping any of the bolts you would certainly go to the hospital. The worst part is right before the 4th bolt because it is both scary and difficult. That bolt is also the only one on the route that is a small button head not something that i would want to take a fall onto.
|By Ryan Sather|
From: Boulder, CO
Dec 13, 2013
Made the same mistake of thinking this route was Walk on the Wild Side(guess you go more left?), so keep that in mind if you don't want to open up a can of worms. Couldn't help but wonder why this climb wasn't cleaner when it was supposed to be so popular, but upon reading the description it is a lot clearer what route I was on. This thing was run out, dirty, and a mental battle. Regardless this route was a rewarding lead and I probably wouldn't have gone for it if I knew the grade. Only did the first pitch. My girlfriend was not a fan (maybe having expectations of 5.8 climbing). Going to the fourth bolt was heady, would have been a horrible fall, and was foot intensive. The button was nice and rusty! Foot work makes it go!
|By C Miller|
Dec 16, 2013
The start of Walk on the Wild Side is from the highpoint of the blocks stacked against the face.
Jan 30, 2014
Same here - was planning to do Walk on the Wild Side and unwittingly ended up on this. Seems like I clipped a bolt or two from Negro Girl just to the left (6 clips total, with bad rope drag), but did end the pitch at the anchor for this route, just above the overhang / bulge. R/X rating is right. I am pretty sure a botched clip at the second bolt would result in hitting the deck. Some sketchy flakes above the second bolt (don't yard on - about to go down) and gritty rock throughout. I counted 3 spinning bolts, one of them a nasty rattly 1/4in buttonhead.