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Iditarod 

5.8+ PG13

   
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Type: Sport, 3 pitches, 400 feet, Grade II
Consensus: 5.8+ [details]
FA: 
Season: July - Sept
Submitted By: Jay Harrison on Dec 12, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1)
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Jason Brechko comes up the crux pitch of Idita...

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Description 

Head up right to the crack and bolt line.
The crack was wet when we were there, so we ended up aiding through what is likely the crux of the route.
Step up to the bolt line and head upward, stepping left then back right to follow the bolts.
The bolts aren't spaced well for short people, alas.
The next pitch is 5.1 X, involving runouts between belay anchors with 1 mid-point bolt. We used a Tibloc and simulclimbed this and the rest of the route. The remaining pitches are 5.0 X or easier.


Location 

As noted, access this from the climber's path near the upper end of the hiking trail, but instead of heading out on the ledge system that leads to the routes on Snowy's main face, continue working down the woods along the slabs for another 400', keeping open rock in sight. Walk along the base of the large slab south to its lower end toward the left side. Scramble up to a ledge (an hanging birch tree was there when we went in 2008; it is visible in the picture).
The route is about 20' right of this ledge, accessed via an unprotected ramp. A crack with a couple bolts below it marks the route's start.
Descent: walk off climber's right to regain the climber's path up to the summit.


Protection 

Bolts, and a small/med. cam might help for the crack.