Idiot's Deluxe 

Lee you are correct by saying Jim Shimberg has the first ascent.

This is a sweet route and one of the best routes in area. Really long, so you get full value.
Easy and fun climbing up a slab leads to a steep headwall where the climbing gets harder, and then a bit harder. Hang it out a bit, crank through the crux, and finish on easier, but pumping, moves to the anchor. This fine route avoids the wetness problem that plagues many routes on this wall. Three stars.

I agree! it only gets 1 star in the new guidebook, but it deserves way more - a really cool climb!! And I like how it is really sustained, it keeps you working to the top.

the crux is like a training wall for flesh

IMHO, the first 45 feet of climbing is easy but only 1 star in quality. The last 45 feet of climbing is really good, sustained, and quite tricky for me to figure out all of the correct sequences. For me, the top half of the climb is 3-star in quality at 10c/d, but only if one nails all the correct sequences.

Oh, Hannah, sorry, cruxy section of this climb felt very differnt to me than the cruxy section of Flesh (from what I can remember :)).

I'd give this route a solid 10c rating. I found the upper portion of the headwall a bit confusing because there seemed to be 2, perhaps even 3, distinct approaches to the final moves due to all of the caulked up holds. Nevertheless, a fantastic climb and certainly one of the best in the area.

How does the crux of this route compare to the crux of Sesame Street?

As i remember, Idiot's is more of a pump factor with moves adding up as you go. Sesame is more crux then rest, crux then rest, there for the moves don't add up to a big pump... challenge wise it's right on in my opinion, idiot's being 1 letter grade harder... have fun on it :)

I second Lee's description. I also agree with Franz that there seems to be two or three ways to climb the top 1/3 of the route. I found the crux to be somewhat the same as Waimea's but more tricky. Ths route will likely test your route reading abilities and how well you can hang on in the overhanging section below the anchors. Enjoy.

I do believe there are three ways of dealing with the crux defined as from the beginning of the business to gaining the good holds above the horizontal. I think, based upon personal experience and observation, 98% of climbers choose a sequence other than what I think Jim intended when he put it up. Which I think is less strenuous than what most people do and not terribly obvious. Hint: Chalk is not always your best guide. Someone ought to ask Jim how he did it when he put it up. I would but I don't climb there anymore and have lost his cell #!!! Just curious.