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Marc Rusin on Idiot Wind.
Photo by: Frosty Weller
This discontinuous thin crack is located in the middle of the Dylan Wall. There is a three bolt anchor visible from below at about 80'. To the right is a long sustained crack in a left facing dihedral (Blood on the Tracks). There is a somewhat broken boulder directly behind the route. A pod at 8' takes a #3 Camalot. From there move up the thin crack with good rests to plug gear and ponder your next moves. There were no moves that felt 11c and the route is extremely well protected. Enjoyable from start to finish.
One each 1-3 Camalots, plenty of TCUs or Aliens. Slider nuts work well on this pitch but are not essential.
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Feb 23, 2006
A superb route, with great pro, great moves, and great rests.
|By Brendan N. (grayhghost)|
From: Salt Lake City, Utah
Mar 23, 2011
tricky, balancy cruxes with good gear.
a quiver of small cams with extra gray and purple camalots