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Dylan Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
All Along the Watchtower T 
Blood on the Tracks T 
Blowin' in the Wind T 
Bob Can't Climb T 
Changing of the Guard S 
Idiot Wind T 
Isis T 
Knocking on Heaven's Door T 
Mighty Quinn, The T 
Million Dollar Bash T 
One More Cup of Coffee T 
Planet Waves T 
Tweeter and Monkey Man T 
Unknown Chimney T 
Watching the River Flow T 

Idiot Wind 

YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c [details]
FA: Friedrichs 1991
Page Views: 3,218
Submitted By: Brian Milhaupt on Mar 22, 2003

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (23)
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Kody Watts in the business of Idiot Wind. photo Ma...


This discontinuous thin crack is located in the middle of the Dylan Wall. There is a three bolt anchor visible from below at about 80'. To the right is a long sustained crack in a left facing dihedral (Blood on the Tracks). There is a somewhat broken boulder directly behind the route. A pod at 8' takes a #3 Camalot. From there move up the thin crack with good rests to plug gear and ponder your next moves. There were no moves that felt 11c and the route is extremely well protected. Enjoyable from start to finish.


One each 1-3 Camalots, plenty of TCUs or Aliens. Slider nuts work well on this pitch but are not essential.

Photos of Idiot Wind Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Marc Rusin on Idiot Wind. Photo by: Frosty Weller
Marc Rusin on Idiot Wind. Photo by: Frosty Weller
Rock Climbing Photo: Deaun on the lower portion of Idiot Wind.  Photo b...
Deaun on the lower portion of Idiot Wind. Photo b...
Rock Climbing Photo: Great climbing, good gear, and good rests.
Great climbing, good gear, and good rests.

Comments on Idiot Wind Add Comment
Show which comments
By nolteboy
Feb 23, 2006

A superb route, with great pro, great moves, and great rests.
By Brendan N. (grayhghost)
From: Salt Lake City, Utah
Mar 23, 2011

tricky, balancy cruxes with good gear.

a quiver of small cams with extra gray and purple camalots
By Landon McBrayer
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Oct 6, 2013

Didn't feel 11c. There are some hard moves on the route, but no more than three in a row before you get to a hero hold or nice rest (lots of rests!). #1-#2 camalots (1), #3 camalot (2), bunch of TCUs purple-yellow.
By Ben Ricketts
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Oct 27, 2014

Great route! has an awesome 5.10 finger crack with feet and rests to a couple of V2 boulder problems. And you can place high gear and be on top rope for both of these. Go for it!

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