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Black Corridor
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Unsorted Routes:

Idiot Parade (aka Need to Rest) 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Mike Moore
Season: Any
Page Views: 3,861
Submitted By: Matt McMurray on May 23, 2006
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You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (127)
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BETA PHOTO: Dyno Variation. Photo credit to girlfriend, Sarah ...

Description 

This route starts out climbing a right leaning crack (crux) and continues through some large huecos and ledges. In the Handren guidebook, this route is referred to as "Need to Rest," but Mike's original name was Idiot Parade.


Location 

This is the last route on the right side of the lower corridor, if you enter from the bottom. It is located just before the dividing boulders.


Protection 

Several bolts up to new chains.



Photos of Idiot Parade (aka Need to Rest) Slideshow Add Photo
Lovin that knee bar rest at the large hueco half way up!
Lovin that knee bar rest at the large hueco half w...
Sheri pulling the final moves before the chain anchors; fun route recommended!
Sheri pulling the final moves before the chain anc...
I cut up my hands real good on this route. Photo by Lynn Sonnabend
I cut up my hands real good on this route. Photo b...
Sticking the move on the dyno variation.
Sticking the move on the dyno variation.
Looking up from the belay...
BETA PHOTO: Looking up from the belay...
All good holds after the hueco.
All good holds after the hueco.
Sheri on the small crimpers at the bottom of the route!
Sheri on the small crimpers at the bottom of the r...
almost there!
almost there!
A knee bar and a heel hook at the same time!? Cool! A fun little route that remained unclimbed all morning on a busy day in the Black Corridor. Fun stuff!
A knee bar and a heel hook at the same time!? Cool...
Comments on Idiot Parade (aka Need to Rest) Add Comment
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By 46and2
From: Las Vegas, NV
Aug 14, 2006
rating: 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b

Great route but keep moving as it can be a pumpy little thing! Once you make it to the large obvious hueco you should be home free!

By Jason Halladay
Administrator
From: Los Alamos, NM
Apr 10, 2007
rating: 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b

I really enjoyed the moves on this route! We had no idea what it was but the big hueco looked appealing so we had to give 'er a go. The upper edges looked like they could be slopers but are quite positive. This is nice because it feels steep! The knee bar in the hueco is cool.

By dnoB ekiM
Oct 17, 2009
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b

Good Eye Mr. Moore! This is perhaps the best 5.10 in the Black Corridor...IMHO. This route is surprisingly pumpy for such a short climb....especially since it has a no-hands rest in the hueco.

By Peter Rakowitz
From: Portland, OR
May 14, 2010
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII E2 5b

If you can make it to the hueco your set. the holds after are surprisingly good but that's hard to tell by looking from below. Such a fun route!

By ClimbPHX.com
From: Mesa AZ
Feb 8, 2012

Great route... make sure your feet are set and GO BIG! Great holds
higher up for those power moves, save your strength!

By Alexander Choi
Feb 26, 2012

Deceptively pumpy but easily one of the best routes in the Corridor (like others have said). The kneebar (or double kneebar) makes for a great no-hands rest experience for the intermediate climber

By mike74
Mar 6, 2012

Great climb. Pumpy, but thanks to the knee bar you can get a perfect rest...

By Maxm
Apr 11, 2012
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b

Ignore your gut reaction to follow the crack past the second bolt. traverse out right to large hueco, take a breath, and sprint on up.

By Sol Cantwell
May 30, 2012
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII E2 5b

Super cool holds and some interesting moves to the top get you to the top.