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The Elephant's Perch
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Astro Elephant 
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Myopia 
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Myopia 

5.11a

   

FA: 
Type: Trad, Alpine
Consensus: 5.11- [details]
Length: 9 pitches, Grade IV
Season: summer
Views: 512 page views

Submitted By: Clint Cummins on Jul 20, 2007


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You and this route  |  Other Opinions (7)
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BETA PHOTO: topo by Reid Dowdle, with some edits


Description 

Beautiful direct corner system up a steep clean wall. A one move technical crux, followed by a sustained stemming pitch and several other moderate 5.10 pitches.


Location 

left side of the South face


Protection 

standard rack



Add Photo Photos of Myopia
Elephant's Perch - South Face<br /><br />8. Lost Horizons 5.10 A2+ <br />7. The Seagull 5.10 A3 <br />6. King's Highway 5.9 A3 <br />5. Myopia 5.11a *** <br />4. Divine Guidance 5.11- * <br />3a. Elephant's Eye Var. 5.10+ A3 <br />3. Elephant's Eye 5.10+ A3 <br />2. Astro Elephant 5.10a ** <br />2.A. Sideline Variation 5.9 <br />1. Sunrise Book 5.12a or 5.10a A1 ** <br />

BETA PHOTO: Elephant's Perch - South Face

8. Lost Horizons 5....



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By David Shiembob
From: slc, ut
May 31, 2008

I took the biggest whipper of my life on this thing last summer. I found all of the 5.10 pitches to be very sustained and difficult. Absolutely incredible route though, just be ready for a mouthful of very solid .10 climbing. It generally protected well, but there were some very thin stemming and laybacking sections where gear was hard to come by and/or place. I have heard repeatedly since I did it that it has a serious reputation, more so than the Fine Line.

I guess these are all just excuses for saying "I got my ass kicked". Hopefully I'll do it again someday, and I'll feel solid. In the meantime, it's burned into my head as one of my most memorable climbs ever.