BETA PHOTO: topo of first 5 pitches by Reid Dowdle, with some ...
Description
A stunning line with superb position above a steep wall with blank rock to either side. After a short crux and one hard move on the first pitch, many fun 5.9 and easy 5.10 pitches up the single crack follow. Eventually it traverses onto the moderate upper pitches of the Beckey Route.
p1 was originally done by Fred Beckey, et al, then freed by the Lowes.
The rating for this route is a mistake. It is 5.11+. The crux is by the last bolt, where the topo shows a "5.11a" move. In addition, if you climb straight up by the first bolt, it is solid 5.11. You can go left and climb up, and then go back right into the corner to reduce the difficulty. An exceptionally good route.
I would second the notion that 11a is slightly off. If I would dare to enter a subjective rating, I would say 11b/c, but the crux is short and well protected, and the climb is outstanding.
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