Description: 10 long pitches. It can be done in in as few as 6 with simul-climbing and running pitches together. The leader should be very comfortable leading runout slab at 5.6 before starting up this climb.
A series of jams, liebacks & stems are all found on this route. Size ranges from fingers / hands to chimney.
Rock & Ice #50 (July / August 1992) features a topo and short article on page 112.
DESCENT: walk off to the right of the summit.
Location
Follow the prominent triple cracks up middle of the face that lead directly to the summit.
Protection
Protection: One rack including a wide variety of up to #4 Friends & chocks for the many parallel cracks. Hexes generally do not work well. Take lots of runners.
This route is closer to 1,000 feet tall and is definately not R rated. It eats up pro. There is only a few sections that are slightly run out.
By Brian in SLC From: Salt Lake City, UT Oct 8, 2008
Only climbed the route once, back in the mid 80's, but, I seem to dimly recall that it wasn't that R rated for a climber used to harder run out routes, but, do recall run outs, and, do recall thinkin' a 5.6 leader might be pretty sketched on some of the route. For the 5.6 rating, I'd call it R or PG. For the 5.10 climber used to that type of climbing, perhaps not. This route already exists in the data base: http://www.mountainproject.com/v/idaho/mccall_area/slick_roc>>>>>
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