Friction slab at its best. The crux sections are bolted very well but a light rack to 1 inch helps in between. Poor pro and few bolts lead to some interesting run-outs on a couple of the easy pitches. Overall a phenomenal route.
Location
Starts a couple hundred feet to the left of Regular Route. Hike down is easiest. All anchors are bolted, but if you must rap then Memorial route is the preferred way down.
Protection
Light rack to 1 inch, maybe a 2 inch piece if it is lucky.
By Nick Dolecek From: Denver, Colorado Jul 11, 2009
Excellent Route!!! The best route on the formation hands down. It isn't that run-out, and the crux pitches are just right to keep things interesting but enjoyable. The slab climbing movement on this route is well worth the trip. We took a single set from green C3 through #2 Camelot and were happy. All bolts are now 3/8 and three bolt belays...amazing!
Fine climbing, but the difficulty is somewhat contrived in places. Look closely as you clip those bolts, as you may notice that if you were climbing 15' left or right, you would be on an easy crack or some jugs. Oh well, the moves are good and the climb is fun. Not 10+. The rebolt looks good- the originals are strong as bubble gum these days. B stepped up and led the crux. She is the not a strong slabber and found the crux trivial.
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