BETA PHOTO: The triple crack system in the middle is the regul...
Description
The crux comes on the 6th and 7th pitches which in my opinion both go at 5.8+. Take plenty of quickdraws because the crux is slabby, but the bolts are quite close together at the hard parts. On some of the easier pitches there is decent runout. All bolted anchors. Comes really close to the regular route at pitch 5 or so.
Location
Starts a little bit to the right of the regular route. Follow the trail past a big dihedral and then look up for the first bolt. The start is marked by a carin. The first bolt is hard to find so look carefully. You can either rap the route with double rope rappels or walk off to the right. The walk off is steep and requires some down climbing. Then some bushwhacking through the gully. It follows a trail the whole way back down to the base. An obvious landmark is looking at the high point and then walking a little bit to the right.
Protection
13 quick draws, cord and locking biners for anchors
By BJ Sbarra From: Carbondale, CO Jul 24, 2008 rating: 5.9-
Great climb! If this were in Colorado it would get done all the time (along with the Regular Route). I might take a finger sized cam to avoid the big runout on pitch 6 next time. Not too many 1000' sport climbs in the US, definitely check it out if you are in the area. Bring your slab shoes, my toes still hurt...
I did the Regular Route a few years back, then a few days later did the Memorial. The Memorial was rather ho-hum after the classic Regular. A few too many bolts for my liking. 1/2 to 1/3 the hole count would probably be adequate. Oh well, it was better than being at work. Heading up there next week and will try the harder routes on the left side. Might just do the Regular Route for fun too.
Slick Rock
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