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Slick Rock
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5.6

   

FA: ?
Type: Trad
Consensus: 5.6 [details]
Length: 8 pitches, 1000 feet
Views: 423 page views

Submitted By: JacobD on Aug 21, 2007


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Description 

Can be pitched out however you want. I've done it in 10 pitches and I've also done it in 6 with a 70m rope to it's full capacity on every pitch.


Location 

Decent is a walk off to the right of the summit. Follow the trail down through some switchbacks, eventually you will reach an easy chimney downclimb, some people rappell this, some put their climbing shoes, on, some just do it. After this it follows the same trail through brush all the way down. If down in the later part of the summer this descent is lined with huge huckleberries! Some 4th class.


Protection 

What rack you take depends on you experience. I now take singles in .5bd up to #4 tech friend, a set of nuts, and a few smaller cams. If not super solid on 5.6 or on building anchors in a vareity of situations I'd reccomend taking doubles. Runners really help with rope drag on full rope length pitches.



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By R Squared
Nov 12, 2007

If you simul climb you can climb this route in about four pitches. Runners do help. Watch for loose rock because it is all over the place. The walkoff off the back isn't bad. The trail is easy to follow. It beats rapping the whole way down. You don't need anything bigger than a number two for this route.

By R. Emerson
May 28, 2008
rating: 5.6

This is a great route for a seasoned leader to "guide" a confident novice up. The second pitch, a long traverse on a dike (similar to those at Lover's Leap, Tahoe, CA) where both the leader and the second are exposed to a lengthy fall is the mental crux. Then there are a few low angle pitches up to the crack system above. Above the crack system is a slightly run out pitch on a little bit steeper rock. I'm not exactly certain why it is called slick rock since the rock has amazing friction that was definitely experienced while climbing the last two pitches in an afternoon thunder/hail storm.

By jhump
Aug 28, 2008
rating: 5.6

This was a few years back, but I remember a little a-frame crack move that requires some finesse to pull. It was toward the top, you pull into an apex with a finger crack above. I remember it being testy for 5.6.

By Shapp
Mar 5, 2009

The route is way longer than 700ft, when I climbed it back in about 1995, there was only 1 old bolt on the whole route (all belays were gear anchors), why did someone feel the need for more? I cacluated at the time there was about 1350 feet of climbing (we did it in 9 pitches). You might not need anything biger than a #2 (what brand?) but there are lots of opportunites to place #3 and #4 friends or #4 camalots too, if you are a new leader.
Shapp