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Window Rock
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Singapore 

Singapore 

5.11a PG13

   

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Type: Trad
Consensus: 5.11a [details]
Views: 357 page views

Submitted By: bbrock on Apr 13, 2007


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Golden goodness. Steeper than it looks.


Description 

Top 5 best 5.11 crack climbs at the City(IMO). Singapore doesn't get done that often as it has a fierce reputation. The pro is perfect until the end where it starts to flare a little and gets pumpy. Also Check out Battle of the Bulge about 50 yards to the right of Singapore.

Here's your list: Brown Flake(Morning Glory)
Scar Tissue(The Office)
Crack of Doom(Morning Glory)
Terror of Tiny Town(Buzzard)
Singapore(Window)





Location 

Window Rock at the left end. There is an amazing looking overhanging dihedral just above the Singapore chains


Protection 

Doubles up to .75 camalot. A #1 camalot may fit in the flare at the end before the chains



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A shot of Singapore's thin cracks...

A shot of Singapore's thin cracks...


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By Nick Stayner
From: Tuolumne Meadows, CA
Apr 14, 2007

Nice list, but Terry of TT and Crack of Doom are both 5.10 cracks w/ 5.11 face cruxes. So, in that sense, I'd add The Awakening on King on the Throne.

By powerandrubber
May 9, 2007

My favorite route at the city, better than COD. I don't get the "fierce" reputation. I've lead it 3 times with good gear, blue and green aliens work best at the top IMO. If the crux (last) placements blow you're still way off the ground. Make sure you do Harvest (10d) to the left, also one of the best City cracks. Both these routes get plenty of shade.

By Guy Humphrey
From: Fort Collins CO
Jun 14, 2008

Wow... You will need to bring your A-game to onsight this one. The lower dihedral is straight forward and only marred by some loose rock at the start. When the dihedral starts to lean, this is where things get interesting. There is good gear, but it is difficult to place and inspect while climbing. The majority of the upper crack is slightly flaring or irregular, which makes the gear tough to place. There are some bomber nuts along the way, so bring a good selection of nuts.