Can you say STEEP!?! Great moves between mostly big holds characterizes this journey up the central portion of the face. Begin up the highly featured rock passing two bolts. Pigs on a Wing (11a) takes off right from here and heads up the prow. Your route continues straight up passing a bunch more bolts on its way to the chains. While no move is particularly hard, the pump slowly increases as you power up the overhanging wall. Hang on through a slightly harder section midway, and dash for the anchors. It is a tad runout from the last bolt to the anchors, but a small to medium cam could offer supplemental protection. But hey... the wall is so steep you'll only fall into air :)
Location
Right smack dab in the middle of The Drilling Field wall. The usual scramble from the trail to the belaying ledge deposits you right at the base of the route.
Protection
Bolts, an optional small to medium cam might be useful for the last moves to the anchor. Bolted anchors with chains.
A gorgeous climb! One of the coolest patina face I saw at the city. A slung .75 camalot was just right for that extra bit of pro, there's a decent stance to place it from. However, you're almost done at that point. An .11a I could easily do all the moves on, but I was lacking some fitness to put it all together.
Would have loved that little bit of beta about the cam when I onsighted this climb. It's a long way (20 feet) from the last bolt to the anchors, and since I encountered nothing that felt like 5.11 up to that point, I assumed the 5.11 lay ahead in the runout. It was heart-in-throat time, and I don't agree a fall from there would be casual. But the holds were huge and made for an exciting and secure finish, though still pumpy.
But, yeah, definitely take the cam. Oh, and ignore that last wayward bolt up and to the left.
The Drilling Fields
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