A good route with good holds and mostly secure climbing, but little for protection. As such, this makes just as good of a solo as a lead. The holds are good and the rock is solid. This would also be an good beginner TR since the moves are fairly intuitive and no special jamming skills or crimping/smearing/stemming is required- it climbs more like a ladder.
Location
This well-featured face lies about midway between the routes "Hough's Crack" and "Breezeway." Climb your way up through the big holds to a crux up high where you will wander slightly to keep the line of lowest resistance.
By Brian in SLC From: Salt Lake City, UT Oct 4, 2009 rating: 5.7 PG13
With the exception of the bouldery start, reasonable protection can be had with small cams (00 TCU to 3 TCU or equivalent) in fairly deep and secure horizontal cracks spaced at nice locations up the route. Save a #3 camalot (ect) for the belay on the bench leading to the groove/chimney down climb to the West. If this route went for 200 feet it'd be all world!
Good to know. Now maybe I'll give it a go. Any slinging of horns, etc?
By Brian in SLC From: Salt Lake City, UT Oct 4, 2009 rating: 5.7 PG13
I used a sling to back up (and tie down) my cam for the belay on the ramp, but, didn't really notice any on the route.
After the initial moves, I tried to trend a bit left to extend the route up as high as possible (fun, big holds!). I really thought after the bouldery start, the route was around 5.3 in difficulty (give or take). Only thing I'd caution is that although the rock felt really solid, I'm sure you could find a friable jug to pop off if you yarded hard enough on the thin ones. Near the top, the gear sorta runs out onto the lower angle slab, but, you're really on your feet at that point.
RSS Feed
