This route follows the arete to the right of Bloody Fingers and Ney Toy. The first bolt is about 25-30ft up. Bolts have been added, since the FA.
Start either in the chimney to the left, or the face below the first bolt. Follow a handful full of bolts to a crack (wires) and finish at a bolt anchor.
GREAT ROUTE FOR THE GRADE!!! if you don't like the easy runout start, protect it in the chimney with a #4 Camalot, and swing out onto the arete! Don't miss this one!!
Agreed with a don't miss this one comment. Runout easy beginning, followed by fun airy arete climbing and a nice crack finish. A 70-meter rope will work for the lower/rappel, if you are careful.
By Jason Billings From: Draper, UT Sep 27, 2005 rating: 5.8
We where able to sling shot this with a 70M rope, but just barely. Have a knot in the end of your rope, or better yet, have your belayer tie in.
By Tony B From: Boulder, CO May 1, 2007 rating: 5.8
Like an idiot who didn't know the area, I cast off on this with just draws and no trad gear. I was happy that the top third of this had such nice fingerlocks, because there is no gear! Don't forget that rack to 1"!
By sgreen From: salt lake city, ut May 13, 2007 rating: 5.8 R
definitely take cams for the top crack, it's splitter. Nuts work but you have to fiddle a bit with them.
By susan peplow From: Phx J-Tree Aug 14, 2007 rating: 5.8 PG13
As stated in the description the first bolt is about 25 feet up. From there you follow a well protected bolt line of 6 bolts until you meet with a short crack before the summit. The hand-crack above can be protected using 1" cams or just climb through. Chain anchors.
This was a classic climb. Loved it. The opening run-out will make sure you are awake. A 60 meter can make this happen and I'll tell you how. If you can't handle the run out start then you can't handle the down climb needed from the wrap down. Your 60 will put you on the ramp to the right of the climb.
RSS Feed
Slideshow
