BETA PHOTO: 1) Bloody Fingers 2) New Toy 3) Twist and Crawl
Description
This is the face below the anchors on Bloody Fingers. There are only 4 bolts on the route, and you have to pull the crux moves before the first bolt. A small wire might be had in the left leaning crack, before the first bolt.
There is ground fall pontential when clipping the first 3 bolts, so this is a better TR than lead. Follow fun face/knobs climbing to the anchors on Blood Fingers.
By Nathan Fisher Administrator Sep 5, 2005 rating: 5.10b
I counted five bolts, but that doesn't change the danger rating as what Guy said was correct, in the groundfall potential. A great long face route with some cool friction moves and the odd body postion move. We did it on TR, while waiting for Bloody Fingers to open up...it never did and I ran out of time on this trip. Damn!!!!!
By Jay Knower Administrator Dec 4, 2006 rating: 5.10a R
I led this route a few years ago, and I'm not sure I'd give it an X rating. I'm not usually that bold. I think solid R.
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