This is probably the best 5.10a trad crack climb at the city, with Thin Slice coming in a close 2nd. It is located on the east side of the Lower Breadloafs about 200ft from the large group parking lot.
The crux is the first 25ft, which is protected by a #1.5 friend or equilivant. Fire in the pro and lieback the slanting crack to the horn. (which is a little loose) The final 75ft follows a right leaning finger-hand-finger crack to a 2 bolt anchor. The final tough section below the anchor can be avoided by runout 5.8 face climbing on the left. A rap with a single 60M will put you on the ground.
What a great route! Liebacking the initial crack/flake would be scary and insecure IMHO! It makes for a reasonable finger/hand jam climbing.
By Nathan Fisher Administrator Aug 5, 2006 rating: 5.10a PG13
What a great route. The best I have done at the City. Twin cruxes, variety of jams, good exposure. I definitely preferred the lieback start.
By Guy Humphrey From: Fort Collins CO Sep 20, 2006
The lieback start is definitely more of a challenge when it is 40 degrees out and you can't feel your hands. This area is a bit of a wind tunnel from the western winds in the morning.
You can lower off and clean this climb with a 70M rope.
By Tony Bubb From: Boulder, CO May 11, 2007 rating: 5.10a
Technical and pretty. A very long single pitch for the area.
By susan peplow From: what day is this? Aug 14, 2007
This route is reminiscent of "Rubicon" in J-Tree, wider and easier but fantastic. A must do!
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