Preteen Sex 

FA:  Goodwin, Steve Johnson '80s Type:  Trad Consensus:  5.8+ [details] Length:  1 pitch, 120 feet Views: 1,156 page views Submitted By: Peter Gram on Jun 5, 2004 Add Photo  Add Comment

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BETA PHOTO: Preteen Sex Topo

Description 

This route has many unique moves and is stout for the grade. The start is just to the right of the 3-bolt line, Nipples & Clits (5.8).

Jam and stem up two steep shallow cracks. This looks difficult to protect, but takes a #2 and #3 camalot quite well. Easier terrain up higher leads to a rightward traverse to a thin crack system. Follow this finger crack to the top with a few tough moves along the way.

Rappel with a 60m rope from either the anchors on Sex, Drugs, Rock & Roll (just to the right), or walk to the anchors near Carol's Crack.

Protection 

Standard Rack - TCU up to a #3 camalot