South Chimney 

FA:  Jeff Lowe and Brad Roghar Type:  Trad Consensus:  5.9+ [details] Length:  7 pitches, 800 feet, Grade III Season:  fall/spring Views: 307 page views Submitted By: michael layton on Sep 14, 2008 Add Photo  Add Comment

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BETA PHOTO: The route in red with belays marked. I suggest no...

Description 

We headed up the S. Face basically following what looked like a good line, turned out to be the South Chimney Route. Start at the base of the slab left of a left facing dihedral with a mini roof at the top....just past the grove of trees on the approach.
Follow slab, cracks, and face with fun gear placements to the major dihedral you can see from the car. Good times up this part, remember that 5.9 was the limit around this time :)
Pull a very hard to protect headwall after the corner and slabby do dah to the top. Can be done in less pitches, but rope drag was an issue, as were bees. Rap off with one 70m rope from chains on the other side from the summit - or two single rope raps.

Protection 

No fixed gear - all you. Big n' small and in between :)

Photos of South Chimney Slideshow

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Looking down at Britne on the overhanging 5.9+++ c...