prominent hand crack/roof route to the right, about fifty feet, of funky bolt. look for the left facing dihedral that starts about fifteen feet off the deck. this dihedral, with a good hand crack in it, goes for about fifty feet until you see a huge roof that takes big gear (maybe eight or ten foot roof). fear not, for there abound plenty of feet and patina crimps on the left wall adjacent to and under the roof. continue above the roof for fifty feet or so, trending leftward, until you can clip some fixe rings around a bunch of webbing slung on a flake. bring your second up from there. Beware of the first fifteen feet, however, as it is strenuous bouldery climbing with gear you wish was better. We found this to be the crux. can be protected with yellow TCU and small wired stoppers.
Location
about fifty feet right of 'funky bolt', the line with a huge wide roof.
Protection
double rack C4s from .5 to 2, one each 3, 4, 5 C4. some small TCUs or aliens, blue to red, (yellow especially helpful for the first bit) you could probably put a #6 in the roof if you had one. one set of stoppers.
By icsteveoh From: salt lake city, UT Sep 15, 2008 rating: 5.10c PG13
This route is really fun, but probably doesn't see much traffic or just needs some tlc to clean it up a bit. Really hard start for me but then the rest is just really fun. PG-13 probably comes from the start and after the roof is some lichen covered thin moves.
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